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Easy Snow Climbs that are in early

Original Post
Luke Koppa · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125

Hey all,
So I am itching to get up some couloir's and was wondering if anyone knows about any that are in this time of year. I am hoping to climb something long and easy, and preferably somewhat near to Fort Collins. I'd appreciate any advice people could give.
cheers,
Luke

Laramide Erogenous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 235

Yeah, me too. Been following for any responses but, shit I guess there aren't any!

Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678

The issues with climbing steep snow couloirs this time of year are: A. The snow is usually dry and bottomless (requiring some miserable post-holing).

The reason why climbing steep snow in the Spring/early Summer is so much fun is that the snowpack has turned isothermic and, through melt/freeze cycles, the surface becomes hard enough to hold your bodyweight and thus warrant crampons and an axe.

I'm certainly no expert on this, but try poking around on southerly aspects where solar radiation has had a chance to transform the snow crystals and percolate meltwater through the snow. Anything on N-aspects will be very dry and could be sitting on a weak layer of facets.

Maybe poke around in Poudre Canyon? Or RMNP? Just my two cents!

Laramide Erogenous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 235

Kinda figured as much, was hoping there was a magical spot somewhere. Haven't had a chance to get out on it but I've been thinking that something like Taylor glacier in the park would be fun, last time I had a look at it was mid to late September and some spots on the upper arms were snow free so there's probably be some wallowing/shitty snow covered rock sections. I'd would imagine aside from possible small cornices the Avy danger would lower significantly the higher you get due to the steep angle... Or I'm full of shit, don't know what I'm talking about and I'm gonna die

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

Once the snow melts off and the glaciers turn to mostly ice in late summer to fall even the slightest snowfall can create a serious avalanche hazard. This year was particularly bad as the warm autumn melted most of the snow cover. Late Spring and summer are the more typical seasons for snow climbing.

Jay Bach · · Cary, NC · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 66

I was just on Lamb's Slide yesterday and it's in perfect condition. Good snow, at the most thigh deep. Heading up the Loft would work too if you stay to the left to avoid the ice - I used it as my descent route.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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