|Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
Thin, facey route with both a low and high crux, this route is again suprisingly difficult for its grade. Anyone leading this should be aware that it's VERY spicy, and there is groundfall potential throughout nearly the entire route. All of the gear is small, and hard to find.
Climb the face 5 feet right of Up A Tree, staying off the arete to the right. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain from the top.
Thin, sparse, hidden gear. Bolted TR anchor.
From: New York, NY
Sep 19, 2007
Good hard climb for beginners. If using bolts up top, be aware that when climbing this face, a fall will swing you quite a bit.
Aug 31, 2009
The PK guide gives this route a "G" rating, but I have to agree with the "R" rating. I remember it was very thin, and thinking that there wasn't much that was going to keep me off the ground if I fell.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Good jughaul for a few moves off the ground, then nice balancy moves the rest of the way. Using double side pulls midway up to ascend the route qualifies it for a soft 5.7 rating, and if not then for the overhanging, bouldery starting moves. Definitely not a 5.6
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
i call it PG.
after the starting moves theres a bd .75 from an almost hands free stance.
there's a .4 above that.
then theres a #2 out left you can extend.
then you're at the top and the bolts are right there.
you can set up TR anchors in such a way as to hit this pitch and the "5.9" on the arete (felt like easy 5.7) then flip the anchor sling over and it's positioned perfectly for "sac's fifth avenue" 5.11 on the adjacent face.