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Easy Overhang 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Susanne Simon - 1941
Page Views: 7,719
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
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An unknown climber on the ledge atop pitch one.

Description 

Fun climbing, Easy O works as a good novice lead or a warm-up for harder stuff.

P1 - Starting from the top of a pile of boulders, head up and left past a right-facing flake to a chimney. Climb the chimney; near its top, move left onto the face and up to a ledge (be careful of the plentiful loose rock). 5.1, 80'.

P2 - Move right on the ledge, then diagonal up and right to a left-facing corner and up to an overhang. Pass this overhang on the right and continue up to another overhang, then escape right to a small ledge (optional belay). Continue up the face to the top. 5.2, 80'.


Location 

Starts on top of the boulder pile right of Baby, and left of the striking crack and white face of Son of Easy O.

Rap from the clifftop over Baby (make sure this route is clear before dropping ropes!), which is to climbers' left, or walk off via Uberfall Descent.


Protection 

Standard rack, no specialty gear needed. Shares anchors with Son of Easy O.



Photos of Easy Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at second pitch of Easy Overhang.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at second pitch of Easy Overhang.
My buddy Joe on his third outdoor pitch ever - Cruising Easy O.
My buddy Joe on his third outdoor pitch ever - Cru...
Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2 First Pitch
Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2 First Pitch
View from the belay ledge of Easy O, makes waiting for your climber a joy.
View from the belay ledge of Easy O, makes waiting...
Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2
Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2
P1 of Easy O
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Easy O
Jenn learning DRT on Easy O
Jenn learning DRT on Easy O
Comments on Easy Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2014
By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Fun easy route. Spring '77 took a girl up this and she literally froze at the second belay. (Small ledge, very exposed.) For about 30 seconds she just stared into space. Soloed a few times--once stoned, wearing work boots. I miss college....

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Excellent @ the grade. A great way to introduce beginners to Gunks rock and exposure!

By Jeffrey Dunn
Administrator
Oct 12, 2009

The second belay at the top of the cliff is a nightmare. There are hundreds of golf to tennis ball sized and shaped rocks that want to kill whoever is belaying on Son of Easy Overhang below. What would be an otherwise fantastic pitch for a new leader is, in my opinion, a terrible situation to put them in.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Jeff - There is an optional belay station shy and off-set the rocky ledge, BUT the anchors might be pretty scary looking to a new climber.

By Jeff St. Pierre
Jun 17, 2010

Where else can a 5.2 get 3.5 stars? Gotta love the Gunks.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 13, 2010

If it's raining but you've just gotta climb something, Easy O is a good route in wet conditions. Better than sitting inside wishing you were climbing, anyway.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Pitch 2 is worthy, pitch 1 gets you there.

By Larry S
Nov 12, 2012

The anchor/rap station shared w/ son of easy o seems to have been replaced recently. 3 good looking angle pitons with chains. Still lots of loose gravel at the top, so be mindfull of those below if you opt for the top out.

By kenr
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13

The new chains + rings at the optional belay 50 feet up on P2 (which is also the top anchor for Son of Easy O) makes it easy for the leader to stop there and maintain good communinication with a follower who might be having trouble with the overhang low on P2. Or having trouble with the slopy mantle just before the the optional belay.

I think the overhang on P2 is 5.2 only if the climber sees the best sequence (and is strong and confident). Otherwise could be troublesome for a beginner. Also the moves right off the ground on P1 could be tricky: Make sure you demonstrate them carefully if taking a beginner.

I find P1 to be more interesting and enjoyable than P2. P1 offers a variety of situatons inside the wide chimney and going around corners out onto the face, and finishes at a spacious ledge with a great view. While P2 has this odd overhang, and then what(?) - and seems like the first half of P2 has dirt on the holds.

By Skip Thompson
May 7, 2014

I climbed it yesterday, and thought the 5.3 "Indecent Exposure" variation made the whole climb totally worth it. If you like a little exposure for a set of 3-4 moves on the top of P1 of Son of Easy O, then edge out onto the face 15 ft. before getting to the optional belay station (with the chains and rap rings). Fun stuff.

By Gunks Jesse
From: Shawangunk Township, NY
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

There is a pink tricam at the top of the second pitch. It is lodged in there pretty good. Be a wise climber and realize that it has been there for awhile and the webbing might not be solid any longer.