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Easy multi-pitch desert wall/tower?
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Oct 15, 2012
I am planning on being in the Moab/4 corners area around Thanksgiving. I am an experienced, but not necessarily very strong trad climber and I was wondering if there are any easy (5.7 and under), multi-pitch, desert tower/walls that someone could recommend? Chris Ilg
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 2, 2006
5 points
Oct 15, 2012
Summit shot
Try the South Six Shooter in Indian Creek. Drew McLean
From Colorado
Joined Oct 16, 2006
378 points
Oct 15, 2012
I second South Six Shooter - great fun.

Also lots in the Arches.

Lizard Rock in the Fisher Towers, and of course Ancient Art. North Chimney on Castleton, which is a bit harder.

Paul
Paul Gagner
Joined Oct 9, 2007
24 points
Oct 16, 2012
owl rock in arches roundhead
Joined Mar 4, 2010
9 points
Oct 16, 2012
dream canyon fun!
north chimney castelton !!!! go for it that easy aproch great anchors bring a#5 Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,256 points
Oct 16, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
South six shooter is the easiest mentioned above but still has a bit of 5.8 despite your clear parameters. You should feel ok on 5.9 before attempting the others. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Oct 16, 2012
the man was smart
thanks for calling it easy instead of that word moderate! T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,054 points
Oct 16, 2012
Not exactly Moab, but nearby, west of Green River, the San Rafael Reef has many 500+ foot slab routes that are 5.8 and below - check out the MP listings. Sandy, runout, and fun if you are into that kind of thing, and technically much easier than the routes suggested above. J Achey
Joined Aug 28, 2009
153 points
Oct 16, 2012
Devin Fin wrote:
north chimney castelton !!!! go for it that easy aproch great anchors bring a#5


Don't even think about this route if you can't lead a 160 ft 5.9 crack.. it will spank you and clear your insufficient rack at the same time...
BackAtItAgain
Joined Dec 8, 2011
15 points
Oct 16, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Try "best routes for you" in the Moab area database on this site. Some good suggestions there.

Looking Glass is fun.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Oct 16, 2012
5.12 b
You would be better off going to potash road in Moab to climb easy routes. Mr. Hummus
From SLC, Utah
Joined Jul 18, 2010
35 points
Oct 16, 2012
sail away, joshua tree
I was looking at doing Standard(west fins) on the elephant butte one rest day while in moab.. anybody done the route? is it any fun? michael rowell
Joined Apr 26, 2011
20 points
Oct 16, 2012
Mr. Hummus wrote:
You would be better off going to potash road in Moab to climb easy routes.


That or the Ice Cream Parlor.

Most towers are a bigger bite than most expect, especially if you've been weaned on "easy" towers like Ancient Art and Owl Rock. Ancient Art is a lot of fun, but the 5.8/5.9 second pitch will challenge your head space if you're not comfortable at the grade, and the third pitch on is very difficult if you can't handle exposure.

Castleton is awesome via either 5.9 route, but they both involve sustained 5.9 offwidth (Kor-Ingalls more than North Chimney) so they aren't within your parameters.
Brian Scoggins
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,088 points
Oct 16, 2012
I get excited over a large desert rack
If you are near grand junction/fruita then ottos route. rob rebel
From Denver, co
Joined Jan 20, 2006
35 points
Oct 16, 2012
At the BRC
michael rowell wrote:
I was looking at doing Standard(west fins) on the elephant butte one rest day while in moab.. anybody done the route? is it any fun?


Yes, lots of fun. Nice view.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Oct 17, 2012
Thanks everyone who has contributed so far. Please keep them coming! Chris Ilg
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 2, 2006
5 points
Oct 17, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Chris Ilg wrote:
Thanks everyone who has contributed so far. Please keep them coming!


No. We are done my son. Take what you have learned and make wise choices grasshopper.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points


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