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Easy multi-pitch desert wall/tower?
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By Chris Ilg
From Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2012

I am planning on being in the Moab/4 corners area around Thanksgiving. I am an experienced, but not necessarily very strong trad climber and I was wondering if there are any easy (5.7 and under), multi-pitch, desert tower/walls that someone could recommend?


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By Drew McLean
From Colorado
Oct 15, 2012
Summit shot

Try the South Six Shooter in Indian Creek.


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By Paul Gagner
Oct 15, 2012

I second South Six Shooter - great fun.

Also lots in the Arches.

Lizard Rock in the Fisher Towers, and of course Ancient Art. North Chimney on Castleton, which is a bit harder.

Paul


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By roundhead
Oct 16, 2012

owl rock in arches


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By Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Oct 16, 2012
dream canyon fun!

north chimney castelton !!!! go for it that easy aproch great anchors bring a#5


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By Greg D
From Here
Oct 16, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

South six shooter is the easiest mentioned above but still has a bit of 5.8 despite your clear parameters. You should feel ok on 5.9 before attempting the others.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Oct 16, 2012
modern man

thanks for calling it easy instead of that word moderate!


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By J Achey
Oct 16, 2012

Not exactly Moab, but nearby, west of Green River, the San Rafael Reef has many 500+ foot slab routes that are 5.8 and below - check out the MP listings. Sandy, runout, and fun if you are into that kind of thing, and technically much easier than the routes suggested above.


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By BackAtItAgain
Oct 16, 2012

Devin Fin wrote:
north chimney castelton !!!! go for it that easy aproch great anchors bring a#5


Don't even think about this route if you can't lead a 160 ft 5.9 crack.. it will spank you and clear your insufficient rack at the same time...


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By Brian in SLC
Oct 16, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Try "best routes for you" in the Moab area database on this site. Some good suggestions there.

Looking Glass is fun.


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By Mr. Hummus
From SLC, Utah
Oct 16, 2012
5.12 b

You would be better off going to potash road in Moab to climb easy routes.


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By michael rowell
Oct 16, 2012
sail away, joshua tree

I was looking at doing Standard(west fins) on the elephant butte one rest day while in moab.. anybody done the route? is it any fun?


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Oct 16, 2012

Mr. Hummus wrote:
You would be better off going to potash road in Moab to climb easy routes.


That or the Ice Cream Parlor.

Most towers are a bigger bite than most expect, especially if you've been weaned on "easy" towers like Ancient Art and Owl Rock. Ancient Art is a lot of fun, but the 5.8/5.9 second pitch will challenge your head space if you're not comfortable at the grade, and the third pitch on is very difficult if you can't handle exposure.

Castleton is awesome via either 5.9 route, but they both involve sustained 5.9 offwidth (Kor-Ingalls more than North Chimney) so they aren't within your parameters.


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By rob rebel
From boulder, co
Oct 16, 2012
I get excited over a large desert rack

If you are near grand junction/fruita then ottos route.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Oct 16, 2012
Sure, I can belay

michael rowell wrote:
I was looking at doing Standard(west fins) on the elephant butte one rest day while in moab.. anybody done the route? is it any fun?


Yes, lots of fun. Nice view.


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By Chris Ilg
From Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2012

Thanks everyone who has contributed so far. Please keep them coming!


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By Greg D
From Here
Oct 17, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Chris Ilg wrote:
Thanks everyone who has contributed so far. Please keep them coming!


No. We are done my son. Take what you have learned and make wise choices grasshopper.


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