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Easy Looking Glass climbs

Original Post
Jacob Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

Is there any climbs at looking glass or rumbling bald that can be led with only a set of wired nuts and a pink TCU?

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Definitely not. Nuts are probably the least important piece of gear at LG. Only a few routes actually require them. I am also assuming you mean pink tri-cam and not TCU. There is no pink TCU that I am aware of, unless this is some ancient design. You could however lead most of the routes at the Nose with just a single set of tri-cams, especially if you carry some of the larger ones up to white or green. There are no sport routes at LG and none that can be top-roped with the gear you listed. Your rack is not ready to be led on at most places in this state. If your looking to go cheap, acquire some tri-cams and maybe a few cams, especially in the smaller sizes since tri-cams cannot protect finger sizes and smaller.

There are a few beginner places in N.C. that can be sport climbed. A few places exist very close to LG. You should check out Mike Reardon's guide to Cedar Rock and satellite areas.

I would also suggest hiring a guide service or getting a mentor before you jump into trad with no experience. The trad in N.C. and many other places with granite style faces is often not bolted when the climbing is 5.6 or below and no natural gear is available. It is very easy to make mistakes and not even realize it due to inexperience. A local guide/mentor can also answer a lot of the gear questions and suggest good places to learn.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Well, any climb could be done with a hand full of nuts and a TCU if you were skilled enough...but if you have to ask...probably not.
BTW, What's a pink TCU?

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I think there are probably a lot of routes that could be lead on all passive gear, but you'd need another set of stoppers (maybe offsets) and more tri-cams. Now that I think about it you could lead anything at Cereal Buttress with a load of tri-cams, stoppers and a few big hexes. But you'd need to be on your A game placing the stuff or it could get dangerous pretty fast.

But there are definitely routes on the south side of LG that would go on all passive gear and the Nose routes would go on all tricams if you had enough and the right sizes.

Like someone else said, it's not a good sign that you have to ask.

Robert Fogle · · Juneau, AK · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 35

Onsight... Onsight... Onsight... My " pink tcu " is a total ripper piece!

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190
Jacob Robbins wrote:Is there any climbs at looking glass or rumbling bald that can be led with only a set of wired nuts and a pink TCU?
I think the "Rat's Ass Challenge" has just been born.
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
Chuck Parks wrote: I think the "Rat's Ass Challenge" has just been born.
Good luck setting up P1 belays on just nuts.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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