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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Easy Keyhole 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden 1950
Page Views: 2,901
Submitted By: Mark Roth on May 20, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The wife on one of her first leads...
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is probably near the bottom, but the overhang was the scene of great suffering when I was about 10. I had crawled deep into the recesses of the overhang to avoid the massive exposure! My impatient father (he was actually extremely patient) decided he'd waited long enough and started hauling on the rope. He would have succeeded in pulling me up, as he often did, except for the fact that the rope ran through the 3 inch slot at the edge of the roof. He pulled, I smashed my head, I cried out in pain and then in fear, and he pulled some more... eventually I made it around. Years later this became a fun part of our easy solo circuit.

Anyway, climb this if you dare. Exit the overhang on the left (looks like you could also exit right). There is a 2nd pitch that continues up to the right if you must summit...


Location 

This is the hand crack/offwidth/chimney/slab/roof just right of the Katzenjammer face. This is right at the beginning left side of the Trapps. When the cliff leaves the carriage road look up to the left, thar she blows.

Wlk off left after either pitch.


Protection 

Standard rack. One ancient fixed pin. The guide book calls it G, but the gear may not help. If you fell, you'd probably slip into the crack and get stuck. If soloing or sewing it up, you probably don't want to fall.



Photos of Easy Keyhole Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Deagle leading Easy Key Hole
Paul Deagle leading Easy Key Hole
Paul Deagle - Easy Key Hole 5.2
Paul Deagle - Easy Key Hole 5.2
Comments on Easy Keyhole Add Comment
Show which comments
By GMBurns
May 28, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

A bit harder than 5.2 because of the polished start. Has some fun moves for the grade, but overall, kind of boring.

By sunder
From: Alsip, Il
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

More like a 5.6

By Mike McLean
Aug 15, 2010

There was just a long discussion about this at Gunks.com. The locals maintain that it's a 5.2 because the 'move' is right off the ground (although that's not quite true as per say - falling on that move will deposit you in the crack or the boulders underneath).

Once that move is done though, you must admit that it's not all that hard.

(As a comparison, the opening move on Minty feels about the same and no one really questions Minty's rating at 5.3)

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 10, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

5.2 my ass. Heaven help the novice lead climber looking to do the "easy" 5.2 climb at the Gunks!

By JSH
Administrator
Apr 11, 2011

The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet.

By Hana
Jul 9, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

This was my second lead in the gunks and I found that crux a bit nerve wracking considering the consequence of a fall (jagged rock/ledge), though an easy climb I didn't think the protection on it was great for the first 40 feet for a G rating... a 5 cam would have been helpful, an interesting climb for the grade though.
As to the administrator, i don't think the crux issue is necessarily about the climbing skill set, just a heady move for a novice trad leader.

By BrianRH
Apr 30, 2012

A poor choice for an introduction-to-climbing route since a beginner will likely have a lot of trouble with the bouldery start. Like Laurel, it makes me wonder about grading climbs where the crux is the first move off the ground.

By Charlie Kelly
Nov 14, 2013

Do not climb if you are not comfortable pulling 5.4 moves off the deck with serious ankle breaking potential in the event of a fall. Blocky ledges below would not allow for a soft landing. I really do not recommend this for anyone who isn't comfortable leading at least 5.4.