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Nautilus
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A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
Crankenstein 
Cupcake 
Deception 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Dual 
Easy Jam 
Ejector-Rejector 
Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hemoglobin 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
Humper 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Joke 
Knee Grinder 
Knothole 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
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MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
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Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
Octagon 
October Light 
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Outrider 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
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Postman, The 
Pretty 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
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Right Winger 
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Slat 
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Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation 
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Thin Lizzy 
Thunderbolt 
TTL 
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Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
Wall-To-Wall 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Easy Jam 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,532
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001
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Easy Jam is the left crack in the corner@SEMICOLON...

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Description 

Wide cracks have a well-deserved reputation for being one of the more difficult genres in our sport. I suspect this is due to the simple observation that in wide crack climbing, technique goes a long way. Struggling up a wide crack without technique is like climbing a steep trail on skiis- without wax: just plain miserable.

Locate Easy Jam by heading left from the parking lot, and wandering through the maze of boulders to a short slab with a nice-looking diagonal crack in it (Cornelius, 5.5, excellent). Just left is this wide crack challenge.

Wear protective clothing- minimizing pain or discomfort is a good place to start. Now decide which side of your body you want to have inside the crack. Think which orientation allows for the most friction (often very helpful) while reducing any awkwardness. In leaning wide cracks it is often advantageous to have your back against the lower angle side, so that rests can easily be found by leaning back (as opposed to being forced up against the crack). For this route you will want your left side in.

Arrange your gear on a sling, so there is nothing on your harness to get caught.

Keep in mind that in wide cracks and chimneys you can often optimize your body position to provide added security. Done properly, it is hard to fall out of a wide crack, although the tendency for the leader is to get too deep in a wide crack, which is not always the easiest way to climbing one.

The secret to wide cracks is focusing on your lower body. It is the legs that do most of the pushing and stabilizing. Use your arms to maintain your position. For this climb, heel-toe jams with the left foot work well. You can also torque your left knee to help. Arm bar with your left, and move systematically: secure your arms position, then release your lower body (legs, feet) and slide them to a higher position. Now lock them in, and slide up (don't pull) with your upper body by pushing with your legs. Lock the upper body and repeat.

This climb is a little runout, but short. If in doubt, try it on tr.

A nice progression on the Nautilus for learning wide cracks is: Easy Jam 5.4, Baldwin's Chimney 5.4, Right Parallel Space 5.5, Piton Perch 5.6, Slit 5.7, Hamburger Crack 5.7, Candlestick 5.7, Upper Slot 5.7+. Remember that, unfortunately, easier wide cracks tend to be squeezes, and are often poorly protected, so take this progression slowly.


Protection 

#4 Camalots, #4 Friends.



Photos of Easy Jam Slideshow Add Photo
My first lead climb.
My first lead climb.
Pam Migliore stuffing herself into Easy Jam.
Pam Migliore stuffing herself into Easy Jam.
Theo gearing up for Easy Jam and Cornelius, after we sent Edward's Crack, trying to get his head into his son's helmet!
Theo gearing up for Easy Jam and Cornelius, after ...
The woman in red is climbing Easy Jam.
BETA PHOTO: The woman in red is climbing Easy Jam.
Comments on Easy Jam Add Comment
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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 1, 2001

Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list.

By Mike Sofranko
Oct 9, 2001

A #4 Camalot and a couple #4 Friends protects this one fine. An anchor can be made at the top of Cornelius with a few pieces in the range of .5/0.75 Camalots.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 10, 2003
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

This climb is really short. It took me about 2 minutes to solo it and frankly, it didn't even feel like 5.4. Bring lots of big cams (#4 Camalot over and over and over again) and you can sew this baby up. Just place pro below you, otherwise your body will knock it out of position as you pass.

By Michael Kullman
Oct 20, 2003

A couple of big hexes (11s and 10s) are more than enough to protect this route. A good warm up or beginner lead.

By Rob Migliore
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

You can almost climb this route like a dihedral if you keep your feet outside the crack on the arete. I don't feel like I learned as much as I should have on this route. It was hard to get secure feet. I'm not a good crack climber, but I was hoping to get better. Again, I'm not fond of the walk off.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 3, 2005
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

This was a fun warm up and intro to the areas wide crack tech, I found it was comforting to jam my body as deeply in as possible most of the time. That is assuming that this action does not prohibit further upward momentum. but then again I was ropeless, followed by my brother. If you can solo this thing you should be pretty comfortable with the walk off, and if not then I saw plenty of bolts that you could probably rap off. If your that worried you might just haul 2 ropes up this easy warm up. Like mentioned before if attempting this beast on lead bring pleanty of big gear and place it below you so that it doesn't get in your way; I don't know how just do it =) !

By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Aug 9, 2006
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

Probably easier to solo than to lead.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 8, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

This is also a spectacular climb to practice stacks on. It feels even more like 5.4 when you're doing hand-fist and butterfly stacks on it.