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Unsorted Routes:

Easy Hard 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Buddy Price, K. Savoy - 1973
Page Views: 2,317
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Easy Hard

Description 

More proof that there's nothing boring about easy/moderate climbs at Moore's, Easy Hard makes a nice warm-up at the start of the day or a good wind-down after a hard day of climbing. NOTE: despite the 5.5 rating, this is probably not a good choice for a first trad lead.

Follow a crack system up to face climbing and a small overlap; move right and up the face (crux), then continue past a tree ledge to a big tree in a cave-like nook.

Location 

Starts about 20' left of Head Jam. Rap from the slung tree at the top.

Protection 

Cams and passive pro in the small to medium range; build a gear anchor and/or sling the big tree.


Photos of Easy Hard Slideshow Add Photo
Michael does the big stem on Easy Hard.
Michael does the big stem on Easy Hard.
Easy hard and Head Jam Rappel Station
BETA PHOTO: Easy hard and Head Jam Rappel Station
Another view of the start of Easy Hard.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the start of Easy Hard.

Comments on Easy Hard Add Comment
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By Allen Freeman
Jun 2, 2008

Fun route, definitely not suggested for a 1st lead, routefinding to the ledge above headjam isn't exactly intuitive and the slopery business at the top is kind of freaky.
By Matt Westlake
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Near the top, below the roof I went left instead of right today for a nice variant. Couple of exposed moves that dodge the slopey top out and step out over space a bit. A bit harder (6+/7ish) but fun. Protection was a bit interesting but I think it was adequate.
By S. Fischer
May 14, 2012

I missed the traverse right... when I got to the roof and looked right, the traverse didn't look very protectable on the way over to the head jam crack system. I opted to pull the roof, which can be spicy if you're looking for 5.5 or 5.6 climbing. I ended up climbing straight up to another anchor at the top, rapping down to the head-jam ledge and rapping again from there. Certainly not an intuitive traverse.