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Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ken Trout
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: Edward Jenner on May 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Up above the nice pockets and moving towards the c...

Description 

Start 30 feet right of Crack of Dawn and the next one to the right of Head Cheese. Go up a short slab past 4 bolts to a dark, steeper section with a corner on the left and 3 more bolts to anchors.

The slab is very nice and would be worth 2 stars if it went to the top. Unfortunately I thought the second half was quite contrived. The climbing steers you into the corner, and I ended up traversing right to make the second to last clip. From here, it is actually 5.10 to the anchors, but the final hold looks like it is much worse than it is, so I ended up going left again. Even if the upper face is 5.10, it is way too tempting to climb the corner. This is worth doing if you need a warm-up in the area.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bold anchor.


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By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 16, 2005

I think this route is a little more than just "worth doing if you need a warmup". If this were on the Cactus Cliff, it would be the best rock on the entire wall. The pockets on this slab are really great. I agree the top is contrived, but it's still quite a pleasure to climb such a nice route as a warmup.
By Stewart M. Green
Oct 11, 2006

This route is actually called "Trout Fishing in America" or in Rick's book, "Trout Fishing." It was opened by the ubiquitous Ken Trout. Of course Trout Fishing in America was a famous counter-culture book by Richard Bratigan back about 1970. And I agree with Mike, this offers fun pocket-pulling in a great setting. The only thing I don't like are the open shuts at the top.