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The "Gimme Some" Dome
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Amar-EZ 
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Easy Blondes 
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Mr. Blond 
Should I Stay Or Should I Go? 

Easy Blondes 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Slopers, Nick Martel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: NickMartel on Sep 21, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Beta

Description 

10' of low angle easy start (sub 5.5) to 40-45' 5.7 vertical section and the crux. Volcanic rock with some pockets, a nice flake, and sharp crimpers.


Location 

Same start as "Blonde Ambition" which starts on steeper rock between lower angle rock on either side. Up through bulge, then left (almost into small cave) for 5.7 bypass of "Blonde Ambition's" crux then angle towards chains.


Protection 

Top rope chain anchor. We will eventually drill for lead once we finish the rest of the TR anchors on the dome. You can top rope directly off the chains but you can lessen rope drag by extending the anchors with shoulder length (or longer) slings without missing out on good climbing because it is low angle from the top of the crux section to the chains.



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By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 22, 2011

CONDITION REPORT 

I (and a few people who have come out with me) have cleaned a lot of loose rock off the face. 95% of it is gone. A little traffic and the last 5% will come off but for the time being have your belayer stand a bit off to the side NOT directly nder you. Since the walll is entirely TR for the time being makeing falls <1' the WORST thing that can happen if a handhold or foothold comes off is for it to land on your belayer.

PM me any questions, ideas, recomendations, thoughts, ect...

Climb Safe, Have Fun.