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 ADVANCED
Easy Bake Alcove

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Lost in Tuff S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

Easy Bake Alcove  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Location: 35.82217, -106.54039 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,727
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014
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Description 

Facing due south, sheltered from the wind and up above the river, the Easy Bake Alcove gets its name from the Easy-Bake Oven as the area tends to bake even on the coldest winter days. The area is definitely best as a winter crag but fall and spring are reasonable especially if the day is cloudy.
You'll likely be climbing t-shirts on sunny, calm winter days even if the temperature at the parking area is well below freezing.

Getting There 

Hike along the East Fork of the Jemez River from the main Las Conchas parking lot for about 15 minutes (roughly a mile). You'll cross the river three times on good bridges. After the third crossing, keep hiking past The Sponge. Just beyond The Hidden Tower but before the beautiful Leaning Tower is a big corner/alcove up above the river. This is the Easy Bake Alcove.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Easy Bake Alcove:
Crucial Taunt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Babies in the House   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
Lightbulb Not Included   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Stray Capacitance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   
The Seashells Shall Shine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Lost in Tuff   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Autumnal Bliss   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Schwing!   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Easy Bake Alcove

Featured Route For Easy Bake Alcove
Great position and rock on Lightbulb Not Included. October 2013.

Lightbulb Not Included 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Easy Bake Alcove
A lightbulb gave the Easy Bake Oven its power but it's not power, but technique (and a touch of faith), that will get you to the top of this line.Start as for Babies in the House but clip bolts on the blunt arÍte to the right. After the third bolt leave the security of the corner with a tricky, blind reach to the arÍte. Engaging climbing leads up to gigantic holds through the roof and steep finish. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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By Karl Kiser
Apr 14, 2014
The crag is a good addition to the area. Thanks for the FAs!