Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend 5.5
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Brad Singer & Dave LePere, October 2001 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Mar 21, 2007 |
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Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend (5.5), Castle Ro...
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Description Climb to the top of a block and make a few easy moves to reach the first bolt then head up the slab veering slightly right to the base of a headwall. Pull over the steep section on hollow jugs and then wander up the highly featured slabby face to anchors on a ledge.
Location 20' left of Black Tower Crack at a slabby portion of rock.
Protection 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Black Tower Crack)
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock
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Parker Fagrelius leading.
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Christian Sweetsheppard rappelling after finishing...
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| Comments on Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend |
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Not certain what BGraham's issue was with "Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend," but we thought this was a very clean, enjoyable route with lots of interesting features. The climb begins with an easy, well protected slab to a steep and thought provoking bulge and finishes with another fun and easy slab to the anchors. Yes, the nut on the left anchor bolt is loose, but a simple tweak with a small wrench solved that issue. Great area, hadn't climbed here in 26 years, but the new routes were appreciated. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.6
| A good intro for someone just getting into leading - but be sure to know how to safely set up a rappel. The third bolt is a tad goofy in its placement, as it acts like a cantilever which makes it a bit of a stress riser if it's loaded. |
By Mary Moser
Jul 23, 2011
| I agree with the comment about the 3rd bolt placement. I slung a horn above it just as a back-up. This is a very fun route with some good exposure for its grade. |
By Rebecca Lyons
Sep 17, 2012
| Does anyone know anything about the variation to the left of this route? Also a bolted line with a truly awkwatd start. An little spicier than a 5.5 I'd say. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 9, 2012
| The variation to the left sounds like "Damsel in Distress" (5.9). |
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