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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Tower Crack T 
Damsel in Distress T 
Easy As Your Best Friends Sister T 
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend S 
Hard As Your Husband T 
Trebuchet T 

Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brad Singer & Dave LePere, October 2001
Page Views: 1,287
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Parker Fagrelius leading.

Description 

Climb to the top of a block and make a few easy moves to reach the first bolt then head up the slab veering slightly right to the base of a headwall. Pull over the steep section on hollow jugs and then wander up the highly featured slabby face to anchors on a ledge.

Location 

20' left of Black Tower Crack at a slabby portion of rock.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Black Tower Crack)


Photos of Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend (5.5), Castle Ro...
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend (5.5), Castle Ro...
Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock
Christian Sweetsheppard rappelling after finishing...
Christian Sweetsheppard rappelling after finishing...

Comments on Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend Add Comment
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not certain what BGraham's issue was with "Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend," but we thought this was a very clean, enjoyable route with lots of interesting features. The climb begins with an easy, well protected slab to a steep and thought provoking bulge and finishes with another fun and easy slab to the anchors. Yes, the nut on the left anchor bolt is loose, but a simple tweak with a small wrench solved that issue. Great area, hadn't climbed here in 26 years, but the new routes were appreciated.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A good intro for someone just getting into leading - but be sure to know how to safely set up a rappel. The third bolt is a tad goofy in its placement, as it acts like a cantilever which makes it a bit of a stress riser if it's loaded.
By Mary Moser
Jul 23, 2011

I agree with the comment about the 3rd bolt placement. I slung a horn above it just as a back-up. This is a very fun route with some good exposure for its grade.
By Rebecca Lyons
Sep 17, 2012

Does anyone know anything about the variation to the left of this route? Also a bolted line with a truly awkwatd start. An little spicier than a 5.5 I'd say.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 9, 2012

The variation to the left sounds like "Damsel in Distress" (5.9).