On a recent ascent, many bushes were cleaned out and this makes for a fun very long 1st and 2nd pitch up a fun right facing dihedral. More traffic would clean it up more, but probably doesn't get many ascents.
We climbed to the top of EXPECT NO MERCY and then on to EMPTY PLATE
See Ruckman Guide. It is the left facing dihedral to the left or west of EXPECT NO MERCY
Rappel from anchors to east or walk down to the west or rappel from trees.
Set of Nuts and Camalots to 3.5
No fixed gear encountered except old rotted slings on trees.
May 9, 2010
A fun route--James, thanks for all the gardening!
From: Park City, UT
Jun 10, 2014
Very bushy, dirty and not trafficked. I recommend just climbing the dihedral until its near end, which is amongst a clump of trees. From here you can rappel from the tree with old slings on it. This gets you down to the rap rings of Expect No Mercy? Attempting to top off on westwind buttress from this route became tree-climbing, not rock climbing so I suggest just being content with the dihedral climb- which was varied and pretty fun at times.