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Eastside aid practice?
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By Kevin D.
From Palo Alto, CA
Nov 24, 2013
I'm headed to Owens River Gorge for Thanksgiving, but I've got a bit of an injury that makes sport climbing not the best idea. I'd still like to head out there, but instead put some time in on (solo) aid practice, but still hang out with everybody post-climb.

I do climb trad (almost exclusively), and I've done a few free routes with the Silent Partner and am comfortable with the solo aspect of things. But aside from reading and watching others, I have no aid experience.

So, any suggestions on suitable routes / locations / strategies for this?

Thanks in advance.

FLAG
By Kevin D.
From Palo Alto, CA
Nov 25, 2013
Bump. Still hoping for some suggestions!

I figured at least one person would've told me by now to bail on the Eastside altogether and go to the Valley to practice aid...

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By Edward_
Nov 25, 2013
OT (sorry?) but do you know some good aid practice within spitting distance of bay area?

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By Wylie
From Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 25, 2013
Whitney Portal
Check out the ORG guidebook. I'm pretty sure there are some aid lines hidden around down there. Pine Creek has aid lines for sure.

FLAG
By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Nov 25, 2013
Are you looking for clean aid, or looking to bust out the hammer? If you're looking for clean stuff to get the systems down, it seemed to me that a lot of the sport routes down there would take plenty of gear to be aided up. Just leave the hooks and pitons behind.

FLAG
By Tavis Ricksecker
From Bishop, ca
Nov 25, 2013
Church of the Lost and Found, Left. Summer 2013
there are crack lines at the gorge you could use for clean aid practice, just consult the guidebook. black ice, one holer, z-dong come to mind.

FLAG
By Greg Barnes
Nov 26, 2013
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Like Tavis said, there are crack lines in the Gorge. Be aware that the rock may not be as solid as you want, particularly for aid placements (since you may well be placing & weighting gear where no one has ever placed gear). If you are OK with some hollow/loose stuff then tons of options.

Black Ice is a good option, but Z Dong has some flexing flakes down low, plus a face section. You can get tricams and aliens in some pockets on the face but probably not enough for pure aid (you'd have to do some free climbing in the 5.7 range). One Holer has a significant (and not trivial) face section at the end.

Other good options: Sweet & Sour (gets a bit hollow up top, but it's not far at all to the bolts on Welcome to the Gorge - and you could also bail left to the first anchor on Ambassadors of Funk down low), Spinal Fracture (I remember kind of dicey thin cams at the crux, but probably no big deal if you are aiding), Old and In The Way (thin crack that's bolted - you could aid on the crack and pro/backup using the bolts). You should avoid Feudal Beerlords because that is pretty popular (often toproped after leading Nirvana). And all these options are just on the first two cliffs you reach down the central gully. There are dozens & dozens of cracks down there, just check the guidebook.

FLAG
By Tavis Ricksecker
From Bishop, ca
Nov 26, 2013
Church of the Lost and Found, Left. Summer 2013
Oh yeah, spinal fracture! Good call. Oh yeah forgot that about one holer

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By Kevin D.
From Palo Alto, CA
Nov 26, 2013
Yep, it's for clean aid practice. These are great suggestions. Thanks!

FLAG
By El scorpion
Nov 26, 2013
If you want a non-ORG option- try Little Egypt - might have a little snow on the approach, but could clean qrtz monzonite cracks- which are mostly short-- Dog Day Afternoon, Espresso Crack, and For those about to rock, would all work well with anchors on top and straight-forward placements- short approach- no gapers.

FLAG


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