Eastern Roofs  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  J. Sambataro, J. Killgore (8/13/11) New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Joe Sambataro on Sep 27, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Eastern Roofs is shown on the left. On the main ea...

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Description 

The climb provided moderate climbing up a series of corners, cracks, and less than vertical ground for 3 pitches to reach the last 4th pitch that climbs the rightmost side of a series of steep and impressive roofs. The rock was generally solid with occasional crumbling or loose rock. The cracks were mostly dirt free but full of lichen.

Pitch 1: At the base of a left-facing corner on a buttress left of a large gully, make an awkward first move onto the right side of the face and continue up positive holds before traversing back left around a large flake to a hidden, shallow corner. Continue upwards on easy but marginally protected ground to a belay. 5.6, 55m.

Pitch 2: Follow a short crack and move leftward to a short chimney. Continue up the chimney (some loose rock) into a corner and climb to a ledge below a steep face just right of where the large tiered roofs begin. 5.8, 55m.

Pitch 3: A short pitch brings you to the base of the rightmost corner. From the belay, move left below a small roof and climb up and back right up fun jugs (marginal gear) to a ledge. 5.7, 20m.

Pitch 4: Climb the left-facing corner directly above. Jam and stem up the first small but wide corner roof and through a second small roof. From here, we traversed right on a horizontal crack and up to the top to avoid loose chockstones and summit blocks in the third roof. 5.9+, 25m.

Location 

From the main east face, continue up the scree or snow field to the east side of a large gully. Gain a left-facing corner above the snow/scree.

Protection 

We climbed ground up with a standard trad rack up to a #4. No bolts or fixed gear.

Photos of Eastern Roofs Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The series of roofs to the left of our climb offer...	Following up pitch 1.	Jason heading up pitch 2.
Jason following the short third pitch.	The last pitch of Eastern Roofs.