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Easter Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarians S 
Catwoman S 
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 
Dark Knight S 
Dynamic Duel S 
Egg S 
Elanor S 
Empire of the Fenceless S 
Evermore S 
Flying Beast, The S 
Joker, The S 
Knappweed Herbacide S 
Mr. Two-Face S 
Nevermore S 
New Road S 
New Test Of Men S 
Penguin, The S 
Pterodactyl Traverse S 
Rain Shadow T 
Riddler, The S 
Road To Emmaus S 
Surrounded By Reality S 
Tell-Tale Heart S 
Thunderdome T 
White Men Can't Jump S 
Willard S 

Easter Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,600'
Location: 39.9954, -105.4206 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 79,049
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain. This is confirmed with the exception of the leftmost routes and the upper pitches of the rightmost routes.

Beware of the loose rock if you venture onto the daring East Face route. You may rain down boulders on the approach trail!

FWIW, dogs have been known to make it up the trail to the rock.

There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.

L->R these are:

A. East Face?, 9, 2p, bolts & gear.
B. Chickenshift Armchair Environmentalists, 12+, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Trustafarian Panhandler?, 12 or 12+, 1p, bolts.
D. Surrounded by Reality, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Knapweed Herbicide aka Warm Up, 10+ or 13-, 1 or 2p, bolts.
F. Barbarians, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Empire of the Fenceless, 12-, 1p, bolts.
H1. Tell-Tale Heart, 12, 1p, bolts.
H2. Nevermore, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
I1. Elanor, 11+, 1p, bolts.
I2. Evermore, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Thunderdome, 12-, 1p, gear.
KI1. Dark Knight, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Riddler, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. The Joker, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
LK. Mr. Two-Face, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Catwoman, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Penguin, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Willard, 11, 1p, bolts.
P. White Men Can't Jump, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Dynamic Duel, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Unknown, ?
S. Pterodactyl Traverse, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
T. The Flying Beast, 12+, 1p, bolts.
U. Rain Shadow?, 12, 1p, gear.
V. Wagging the Nub?, 11+ - 2 pitches, 1p, bolts & gear.
W. Unknown, ?, 1p, bolts.
X. New Test of Men, 11+, 2p, 100+', bolts.
Y. Road to Emmaus, 11-, 2p, 100', bolts.
Z. ?, ?.

Getting There 

This crag is easier to spy going uphill than downhill. It lies close to the road, about 8.9 miles from Elephant Buttresses. Parking below the cliff can be limited. At times, this short trail feels like bush-whacking, depending on the time of the year. Hike 3-5 minutes. Expect 3rd to 4th class terrain to get there. This is not kid friendly.

Guidebooks 

Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',9],['5.12',14],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Easter Rock:
Road To Emmaus   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
New Road   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Joker   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Riddler   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mr. Two-Face   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dark Knight   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Elanor   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Empire of the Fenceless   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Thunderdome   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Barbarians   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Tell-Tale Heart   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Surrounded By Reality   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Evermore   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Flying Beast   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Nevermore   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Easter Rock

Featured Route For Easter Rock
Kurt working through the crux.

Thunderdome 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
Thunderdome was the first route done on the North Face of Easter Rock, years before this wall became the excellent sport climbing arena it is today. If you happen to have a rack of gear in your pack, and you're not too pumped from all the excellent sport routes here, this climb will provide some excellent entertainment. Follow the obvious finger crack right of Eleanor. Slightly stubborn gear, clean rock, and a short, stout crux add up to one of the best hard finger cracks in Boul...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Easter Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Old relic, maybe from The Man himself?  Photo: Dav...
Old relic, maybe from The Man himself? Photo: Dav...

Comments on Easter Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 30, 2015
By Zachary Nadiak
Jun 10, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
I left a blue LL Bean rain jacket and an old pair of La Sportiva Futuras near the base of Elanor on the evening of 6/09/2015. PM me if you happened to find these. Thanks!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 27, 2001
I don't think this was climbed on much by "the hard men" before it was bolted. One of the best routes here is Elanor but it has several bolts where it's easier to place #1 Camalots. Route-squeezing has given this place a trashy feel.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 5, 2001
I heard that Derek Hersey did a route on here that was retro-bolted, without his permission of course. That's really lame.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 25, 2002
Don't know about the various controversies here, but I will add that this crag has fun, thought-provoking routes with interesting sequences...that stay dry in the rain!
By ac
Jul 12, 2005
Can someone identify the several routes not in the guidebook to the left of Knappweed Herbacide (the 5.10 warm-up)? I see that "Chickenshit" and "Surrounded" are in the database, but I see at least 4 lines to the left of Knappweed.
By Tod Anderson
Jul 13, 2005
There are three routes that I was aware of, Chickenshit, etc (takes the left side of the roof with kind of a shoulder wrenching move), Trustafarian Panhandler (up the center of the roof, rails to a burly lip move), and Surrounded by Reality (more to the right with the crux actually lower about half way to the roof). There is, or was more room for routes in this area, including second pitches as well.
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 27, 2011
Is the trail difficult? Would it be doable for a 4 year old? Thanks.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2011
Unless you have someone with a young child constantly there is plenty of potential for a child to get hurt at this crag (loose trail, drop offs and so on).
By slim
Administrator
Apr 28, 2011
Ditto what Adam said. The trail up has an exposed 3rd/4th class section, and the base of the routes is generally exposed, sloped, and loose. I wouldn't recommend it for a 4 year old.
By Mandy Allen
May 25, 2012
This crag has some great routes, but it can get really cold. I went yesterday with some friends, and although it was nearly 70 degrees in Boulder, it was freezing at the crag. We climbed The Riddler and had to keep stopping to warm the sensation back into our fingertips. I would recommend this crag for a scorchingly hot day.
By Chris Archer
Jul 2, 2012
Does anyone have any information about the two new routes left of New Test of Men?
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2014
There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience.
By Mike Lawson
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 24, 2014
Found a jacket at the crag tonight. Let me know the size, color, and brand, and it's yours.
By OliH
Jun 28, 2014
PM'd.
By Richard Border
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2015
Found two pair shoes and blue ll-bean jacket. Get in touch!
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 30, 2015
This year is the 20th anniversary of most sport routes at this crag, including the first ones I established in May 1995. These were Tell Tale Heart, Elanor, & Evermore. Beginning with my early guidebooks to the crag, I made some strong recommendations. First, the ledge approach is serious. Bringing young children or dogs warrants real caution. Put a harness on the dog & the kids. Better yet, go somewhere else. I have climbed much less at this crag, since I have had a dog. There are plenty of other dog & kid friendly crags. There isn't much room for the dog or kids to roam around here on the big, sloping terrace. Some dogs love to dig up stuff including around logs for terracing & into bat shit.
Next, don't drop anything like rocks or your rope bag off the ledge. They will roll at high speed downhill crossing the approach trail. I have seen a rope bag roll from the base of The Joker to the edge of the tree near the parking.
It can be a real zoo here & getting back & forth on the ledge below some of the routes is crowded.
Lastly, pay attention belaying. It is too easy to get distracted belaying, especially here.
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