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L to R R to L Alpha
This is a true trad classic and one of my personal favorites. Recently, the river bottom has filled in somewhat, eliminating the first 10 feet of the route and making it considerably easier. In its original form, expect hard bouldery climbing on baby butt smooth stone.
It is just to the right of Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack.
Singles from 0.4-#3 and a couple of ice screws for the finish. Screamers might be nice for the pins.