|90 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus: ||WI4-5 M8 [details]|
|FA: ||Gary Ryan?|
|Submitted By: ||erik wellborn on Mar 5, 2013|
BETA PHOTO: Working those slimy hooks! Attentive belay by Angi...
This is a true trad classic and one of my personal favorites. Recently, the river bottom has filled in somewhat, eliminating the first 10 feet of the route and making it considerably easier. In its original form, expect hard bouldery climbing on baby butt smooth stone.
Climb, hook, and jam the obvious crack to where it ends. Make a big reach to a horizontal seam, clip two very funky looking knifeblades, and then traverse right, clipping another pin along the way. Finish on the Verminator pillar.
It is just to the right of Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack.
Singles from 0.4-#3 and a couple of ice screws for the finish. Screamers might be nice for the pins.
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