Easter Island  5.11c/d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Aug 30, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

"Heel and Toe" rates this 12a, but I think this is one of the rare instances of a way over-rated "Woo" climb; but it is still a great outing and a nice change of pace from the brutal cracks in the neighborhood. I usually start my approach from my campsite at the end of FS road 707af and circle around the S end of "The Heap" on a fairly obvious trail heading first N then branching over to "SS Maywood". Around the corner to the east of SS Maywood, 200-300' (stay low) on an East-facing slab, you'll see a line of bolts heading up a nice slab to a thin tips crack. This is Easter Island.

When I did it, the hanger on the first bolt was missing, but the climbing isn't too hard, so I just looped a wired stopper around the stud for a little mental security to get to good medium (2.5/3.5) cam placement about 20' up before starting the business. The first crux comes immediately as you move off of the wide horizontal crack then eases a bit as you move left. Move back right, following the bolts as things start to get harder again with a couple really thin moves getting up to an incipient crack and the end of the bolts. Continue up the nice seam/ tips crack with a few wires and very small cams to a tiny overlap at the top and then double bolt rap anchors.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts + a few small wires and cams. One medium cam down low.

Location 

On the North Corner, two routes to the left of SS Maywood.