East Wall 5.5 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg, J, Sublette (1964) |
| Submitted By: | Salamanizer on Jul 3, 2007 |
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Open book first pitch.
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is a traverse left. Can be hard to find the route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--.] Just head toward bushy ledge, (it'll be the one with 6+ people on it). (belay #2). Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Just follow the dikes and gear placements and don't be tempted to start moving left too soon. Go up a bit before traversing left. Third pitch follows the bottleneck crack to the rim from bushy ledge.
Protection Cams, .5"-3" Nuts 1set.
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Jul 3, 2007
| 5.5? You're going to crush some egos there Salamanzier! heh heh! As stated above, the safe and sane way to do the traverse is to do it high. You can do it lower for a more airy and less well protected experience. |
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Sep 21, 2009 rating: 5.7
| This gets a 5.7 in the guide book, which is probably correct if you find the easiest line. We got off route and ended up having to do 4 pitches - 3 at ~ 5.6/5.7 and 1 with a harder move (5.8? 5.9?). Anyways, we hit the harder stuff going straight up / right from the first belay. Go up and left above a fixed pin instead. Tricky route finding on this one, I would only recommend it for solid 5.7 leaders. |
By SKI From: Portlandia, OR May 20, 2010 rating: 5.7
| Definitely harder than a 5.5 Protects better than a PG-13 as well. The airy traverse is wild! DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP ON THE TEMPTING DIKES AFTER PITCH 1! Grab the space between the legs and step out onto the cracked and sparsely vegetated wall. A better route than many would say it is, IMHO. The crack variation to the right of the Bear's Reach line is good-to-go. |
By Blitzo Aug 24, 2010
| 5.5 is a very reasonable rating. |
By J. Albers From: Colorado Aug 24, 2010 rating: 5.7
| Sure, 5.5-5.6 is indeed a reasonable rating...that is, if you are willing to pull on some big, rotten, but juggy features. I graded this thing 5.7 because I thought it a better idea to climb a little harder and not pull on some of the bad rock. Either way, it is a fun route with a few interesting sections. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 11, 2011
| 5.6+? If you do the lower traverse (quality!) it feels 5.7ish and certainly you cannot get any pro except for before and after...seems a little PG13 to me. I can't speak to the upper traverse or any other variation. |
By BruceB From: Reno, NV Aug 31, 2011 rating: 5.6 PG13
| Definitely adventure climbing, and fun too. I'd say P1 is 5.6, and a bit awkward/weird in places. There's probably a few different ways to attack the corner/blocky flakes. Not difficult, but a bit committing in places. P2 is great fun, and I'd say also 5.6, but very exposed. I can certainly see how you could get off route and make it harder. From the main belay ledge I stepped left about 6 feet out on to the face then climbed straight up about 35 feet. This follows a crack and protects well. Then I went horizontally left about 30-40 feet along a prominent parallel set of dykes - good feet and hands. I'm not sure if this is considered the high or the low traverse. There are places to place pro on this traverse, but I wouldn't describe it as good - hence I've given it a PG13. At the end of the traverse there are overlapping flakes that I went up diagonally which brings you to the last 15 feet or so of Bears Reach. Right now there is a bunch of fixed pieces (cams) on P1, and a sling at the belay ledge. I'm guessing 5.6 leaders try this and get scared off. You probably need to be a 5.8 leader to be comfortable on this climb. |
By fivefun Sep 5, 2011
| 5.5? heh. 5.6 climbing with 5.9 route finding, perhaps! |
By Josh Cameron Sep 5, 2011 rating: 5.6
| Route climbing is straightforward. Just remember on the second pitch, you are trying to go left on dikes. |
By KevinHecka Mar 3, 2012 rating: 5.6 PG13
| In my less than humble opinion...this route's a solid 5.6. I've soloed it at least 3 times and taught many a new leader on this route. The horizontal dike runout alone ( while using the hole in the flake as natural pro) confirms the original ratings. That's my .02 worth. K. |
By mattymck From: Rocklin, Ca Jun 20, 2012 rating: 5.6
| This is a fun route, done it a few times, depending on which line you choose I think it is 5.6, with the potential for some 5.7 direct variations, but the moves below the small roof on P3 are def 5.6. I never thought this route to be difficult to protect. |
By Angie C From: Sacramento, Ca Oct 1, 2012
| Following the super traverse on P2 could be psychologically challenging for a newbie with the potential for pendulum. Fortunately, the climbing is quite easy. I have seen a handful of people exhausted/annoyed with the seemingly unending traverse on P2. Many people at the group belay ledge after P2 commented on how they were amazed at the super traverse we did from the start of the climb. If you want to do a lot of traversing, this is your climb. Also, do the 5.9 variation at the very end of P3 if you want to end on a fun note! |
By Paul Zander From: Flagstaff, AZ Mar 7, 2013 rating: 5.7
| I honestly thought the little bulge move on pitch 3 was the hardest at 5.6+ |
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