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Open book first pitch.
3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is a traverse left. Can be hard to find the route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--.] Just head toward bushy ledge, (it'll be the one with 6+ people on it). (belay #2). Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Just follow the dikes and gear placements and don't be tempted to start moving left too soon. Go up a bit before traversing left. Third pitch follows the bottleneck crack to the rim from bushy ledge.
Cams, .5"-3" Nuts 1set.
From: Oakland CA
Jul 3, 2007
5.5? You're going to crush some egos there Salamanzier! heh heh!
As stated above, the safe and sane way to do the traverse is to do it high. You can do it lower for a more airy and less well protected experience.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Sep 21, 2009
This gets a 5.7 in the guide book, which is probably correct if you find the easiest line. We got off route and ended up having to do 4 pitches - 3 at ~ 5.6/5.7 and 1 with a harder move (5.8? 5.9?). Anyways, we hit the harder stuff going straight up / right from the first belay. Go up and left above a fixed pin instead. Tricky route finding on this one, I would only recommend it for solid 5.7 leaders.
From: Portlandia, OR
May 20, 2010
Definitely harder than a 5.5
Protects better than a PG-13 as well.
The airy traverse is wild! DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP ON THE TEMPTING DIKES AFTER PITCH 1! Grab the space between the legs and step out onto the cracked and sparsely vegetated wall. A better route than many would say it is, IMHO. The crack variation to the right of the Bear's Reach line is good-to-go.
Aug 24, 2010
5.5 is a very reasonable rating.
|By J. Albers|
Aug 24, 2010
Sure, 5.5-5.6 is indeed a reasonable rating...that is, if you are willing to pull on some big, rotten, but juggy features. I graded this thing 5.7 because I thought it a better idea to climb a little harder and not pull on some of the bad rock. Either way, it is a fun route with a few interesting sections.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 11, 2011
5.6+? If you do the lower traverse (quality!) it feels 5.7ish and certainly you cannot get any pro except for before and after...seems a little PG13 to me.
I can't speak to the upper traverse or any other variation.
From: Reno, NV
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.6 PG13
Definitely adventure climbing, and fun too.
I'd say P1 is 5.6, and a bit awkward/weird in places. There's probably a few different ways to attack the corner/blocky flakes. Not difficult, but a bit committing in places.
P2 is great fun, and I'd say also 5.6, but very exposed. I can certainly see how you could get off route and make it harder. From the main belay ledge I stepped left about 6 feet out on to the face then climbed straight up about 35 feet. This follows a crack and protects well. Then I went horizontally left about 30-40 feet along a prominent parallel set of dykes - good feet and hands. I'm not sure if this is considered the high or the low traverse. There are places to place pro on this traverse, but I wouldn't describe it as good - hence I've given it a PG13. At the end of the traverse there are overlapping flakes that I went up diagonally which brings you to the last 15 feet or so of Bears Reach.
Right now there is a bunch of fixed pieces (cams) on P1, and a sling at the belay ledge. I'm guessing 5.6 leaders try this and get scared off. You probably need to be a 5.8 leader to be comfortable on this climb.
Sep 5, 2011
5.5? heh. 5.6 climbing with 5.9 route finding, perhaps!
|By Josh Cameron|
Sep 5, 2011
Route climbing is straightforward. Just remember on the second pitch, you are trying to go left on dikes.
Mar 3, 2012
rating: 5.6 PG13
In my less than humble opinion...this route's a solid 5.6. I've soloed it at least 3 times and taught many a new leader on this route. The horizontal dike runout alone ( while using the hole in the flake as natural pro) confirms the original ratings.
That's my .02 worth.
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 20, 2012
This is a fun route, done it a few times, depending on which line you choose I think it is 5.6, with the potential for some 5.7 direct variations, but the moves below the small roof on P3 are def 5.6. I never thought this route to be difficult to protect.
|By Angie C|
From: Sacramento, Ca
Oct 1, 2012
Following the super traverse on P2 could be psychologically challenging for a newbie with the potential for pendulum. Fortunately, the climbing is quite easy. I have seen a handful of people exhausted/annoyed with the seemingly unending traverse on P2.
Many people at the group belay ledge after P2 commented on how they were amazed at the super traverse we did from the start of the climb. If you want to do a lot of traversing, this is your climb.
Also, do the 5.9 variation at the very end of P3 if you want to end on a fun note!
|By Paul Zander|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 7, 2013
I honestly thought the little bulge move on pitch 3 was the hardest at 5.6+