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East Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear's Reach 
East Corner 
East Crack 
East Wall 
Fandango 
Fantasia 
Far East 
Fear No Evil 
Haystack 
Labor of Love 
Line, The 
Out to Lunge 
Pigs on the Wing 
Pop Bottle 
Preparation H 
Psychedelic Tree 
Scimitar 
Unnamed 

East Wall 


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Location: 38.8023, -120.132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 118,760
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003
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East Wall on a sunny Winter Day.
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description 

This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.10d. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are sometimes bolted. This 300 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, bot not enough to call most routes sport.

All of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!

Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall.


Getting There 

Approach: Total time: 15 minutes

From the main trail, head uphill (left at the fork just past the parking lot) about a 1/2 mile on the wide open rocky trail. As the path winds, you will see many smaller trails leading up to Lover's Leap. You should avoid the temptation of taking them,and stay on the main trail until it bends and is about 100 yards from the start of the climbing. The final path leading up to the East Face is very wide, and will take you to a side-windy uphill hike that takes less than 5 minutes from the main trail, and stays wide until just before the East Wall. This path runs you right into the start of the East Corner (5.10d).


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',7],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Wall:
East Wall   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bear's Reach   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Pop Bottle   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Preparation H   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 130'   
East Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Haystack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Fandango   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Psychedelic Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Fantasia   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
The Line   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Scimitar   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Fear No Evil   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Unnamed   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Labor of Love   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
East Corner   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Out to Lunge   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in East Wall

Featured Route For East Wall
Before: Scary loose blocks and potential "death flake" on Pitch 1.

Psychedelic Tree 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall
A nice but somewhat dirty route that has a unique topout!P1-follow steep shallow corners and cracks to a decent ledge.P2-a short pitch (technical crux) over a small roof to the base of the "Tree"P3-climb the tree! Step off the top (very airy when windy!!!) of the tree.Variation: climb 5.11 roof (might be dirty)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For East Wall
Photos of East Wall Slideshow Add Photo
East Wall
BETA PHOTO: East Wall
Dike Heaven
Dike Heaven
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "East Corner".  <br />Photo by Blitzo.
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "East...
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
East Wall, Lover's Leap
BETA PHOTO: East Wall, Lover's Leap
Beautiful trees on top.
Beautiful trees on top.
Comments on East Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By sactownclimber
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 9, 2006

and anchors are mostly bolts . . .

This is misleading. In fact, I would say most anchors are not bolts. I haven't done every route on the east wall, but I've yet to see a bolted belay anywhere at the leap.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 10, 2006

Labor of Love and Fantasia both have bolts, though I agree that what I'd written was misleading, and has been changed. Thanks for pointing that out!

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 17, 2008

Noted, and modified! Thanks!