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East Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear's Reach T 
Between the Lines T 
East Corner T 
East Corner Arete T 
East Crack T 
East Wall T 
East Wall Arete T 
Fandango T 
Fantasia T 
Far East T 
Fear No Evil T 
Flying Circus T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Haystack T 
Horn Blower T 
Labor of Love S 
Last Sandwich, The T 
Line, The T 
Out to Lunge T 
Pigs on the Wing T 
Pop Bottle T 
Preparation H T 
Psychedelic Tree T 
Scimitar T 
Unnamed T,S 

East Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.8023, -120.132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 134,728
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003
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Description 

This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.11+. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are rarely bolted. This 400 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, but not enough to call any routes sport. This wall has the highest concentration of classic trade routes, making it one of the more popular destinations at the leap.

Almost all of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! The Leap and especially East Wall is covered in dikes, sometimes almost half a foot wide making routes that would otherwise be difficult and very steep into exciting and wildly exposed routes that go at typically moderate grades. You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!

Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall. There is a spring running behind East Wall that has fresh clean and cold water bubbling out of the ground and running down hill alongside the trail. Please help keep this spring clean and do not use the bathroom or wash yourself off anywhere near it.


Getting There 

Approach: Total time: 15 minutes

From the main trail, head uphill (left at the fork just past the parking lot) about a 1/2 mile on the wide open rocky trail. As the path winds, you will see many smaller trails leading up to Lover's Leap. You should avoid the temptation of taking them,and stay on the main trail until it bends and is about 100 yards from the start of the climbing. The final path leading up to the East Face is very wide, and will take you to a side-windy uphill hike that takes less than 5 minutes from the main trail, and stays wide until just before the East Wall. This path runs you right into the start of the East Corner (5.10d).


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',10],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Wall:
East Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Pop Bottle   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bear's Reach   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Preparation H   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 130'   
East Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Haystack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Fandango   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Fear No Evil   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches   
The Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Fantasia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Scimitar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Psychedelic Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Unnamed   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Labor of Love   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
East Corner   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Out to Lunge   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in East Wall

Featured Route For East Wall
The first pro is under that roof with the horizontal crack

Fantasia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall
To find this climb, look for a very featured slab below a very prominent crescent arch crack that forms a roof. Begin climbing up a highly featured (dikes) face below the arch to the roof, about 50ft of unprotected 5.5Pitch #1:From the start of the route, head up over this roof, work up to another small roof traversing left a bit and then up through easy runnout face to the first bolted anchor, about 140 feet up.Pitch #2:This shorter pitch is probably the simplest and best protected ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of East Wall Slideshow Add Photo
East Wall
BETA PHOTO: East Wall
Dike Heaven
Dike Heaven
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "East Corner".  <br />Photo by Blitzo.
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "East...
East Wall on a sunny Winter Day. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
East Wall on a sunny Winter Day.
Photo by Blitzo.
East Wall, Lover's Leap
BETA PHOTO: East Wall, Lover's Leap
Beautiful trees on top.
Beautiful trees on top.
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
Comments on East Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By sactownclimber
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 9, 2006

and anchors are mostly bolts . . .

This is misleading. In fact, I would say most anchors are not bolts. I haven't done every route on the east wall, but I've yet to see a bolted belay anywhere at the leap.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 10, 2006

Labor of Love and Fantasia both have bolts, though I agree that what I'd written was misleading, and has been changed. Thanks for pointing that out!

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 17, 2008

Noted, and modified! Thanks!