Begin as for "East Slab", but crank right around the slot behind a large flake 20ft. off the ground (5.6). "East Slab East" then follows the first crack ~6 ft. to the right of the "East Slab" crack. This crack disappears ~4ft. lower than the "East Slab" crack. Try to stay on route by climbing directly above where the crack disappears (kind of runout) until you reach other pocket/cracks and the roof. Pull up the roof on jugs in a groove about 20ft. down and right of the apex exit on "East Slab".
Erica making her first rappel. This is a great pla...
|By Jo Holloway|
Nov 24, 2006
This is a surprisingly difficult route to identify based on the guidebook. We had a little diversion which could best be described as east of East Slab East (oopsies) which was still a fun climb. The advice here to spot the disappearing crack should help.
|By Chris G|
May 26, 2008
A bit of information about this easy climb.
Yes, the East Slab is a 5.6, as 90 percent of the people who do this direct start will confirm. However, do not be fooled into believing that this is a good first trad lead in the Boulder area to attempt.
If you are new at placing gear, mixing up crack and face climbing, or taking a few unscheduled run outs, extending draws to avoid rope drag, you'd be better served going to Eldorado and climbing the more consistent but technically harder Wind Ridge or Calypso.
With that said, this climb, now often done in one pitch with a 70m rope is on firm clean white granite and provides a varied climbing experience.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
I typically attempt to refrain from providing such comments, but, beware, if one follows the line shown in Rossiter's book, this climb is VERY run-out above the crack which peters out. It's not difficult climbing, but it is technical. I would not recommend it as a beginner lead.
East Slab is much more protected on the slab than East Slab East.