Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart 
Anthill Direct 
Archer McLanahan 
Back in Black 
Backstroke 
Backtalk 
Black Top 
Blackwalk 
Book of Numbers 
Bulge Indirect 
Bulge, The 
C'est La Fin 
C'est La Morte 
C'est La Vie 
Chromium Shore 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
Continue-us 
Crack Variation 
Desdichado 
Dessert 
East Overhang 
East Side 
Edge of Night, The 
Exodus 
Flakes, The 
Genesis 
Genuine Risk Takers 
High Noon 
Horizontal Beginnings 
Je T'Aime 
La Vie d' Pansey 
Le Boomerang 
Left Side of Roark, The 
Mental Cruelty 
Night 
Noggin 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) 
Original Anthill 
PA's Variation 
Pansee Sauvage 
Pilgrim 
Pseudo Sidetrack 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Redguard 
Restless Nights 
Semi-Wild 
Semi-Wild Slab 
Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
Whistle Stop, The 
Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

East Side 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Tony B on May 31, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a climb somewhat reminiscent of The Bulge but less direct and less impressive. The nature of the climbing and gear, and their respective difficulties, however, is the same.
    Start form a point on the trail a few meters above the tall pine growing at the cliff base. Climb up and slightly left on low angle, easy rock until a right-leaning, rising ramp can be traversed upward, with a crack/flack just over it. Follow this flake to its end, cutting back left below a steep and flat headwall, again following lower angle rock and flakes above this, staying just below the bulge overhead. Pull out left into cracks at a near-vertical section, finagle some gear in, the head back out right onto a ledge with a medium-sized pine tree and belay. Although you are perhaps only 80-90' off of the ground, you will have climbed about 115' feet of rock to arrive here along the way to avoid the difficult plumb-line, which is more or less the climb 'Genuine Risk.'


    Location 

    This route starts as for Genuine Risk. Go uphill along the Bulge Wall for some distance toward the Hawk-Eagle Ridge or Wind Ridge belay base. A tall, thin, lone pine tree is passed just a few meters before you encounter a low angle section below some massive flakes that form a series of zig-zag flakes and ramps that climb upward for 90' to a shelf with a belay tree. This is where the climb starts.


    Protection 

    A standard light rack of nuts and cams with lots of long slings. A tree with bothersomely low branches provides the most solid belay anchor and can be used to rap, but there is an unlikely-looking walk/scramble off past that ledge into the Hawk-Eagle Ridge gully area.



    Comments on East Side Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -