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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Restless Nights 
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To Night 
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Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

East Side 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Tony B on May 31, 2011
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  • Description 

    This is a climb somewhat reminiscent of The Bulge but less direct and less impressive. The nature of the climbing and gear, and their respective difficulties, however, is the same.
    Start form a point on the trail a few meters above the tall pine growing at the cliff base. Climb up and slightly left on low angle, easy rock until a right-leaning, rising ramp can be traversed upward, with a crack/flack just over it. Follow this flake to its end, cutting back left below a steep and flat headwall, again following lower angle rock and flakes above this, staying just below the bulge overhead. Pull out left into cracks at a near-vertical section, finagle some gear in, the head back out right onto a ledge with a medium-sized pine tree and belay. Although you are perhaps only 80-90' off of the ground, you will have climbed about 115' feet of rock to arrive here along the way to avoid the difficult plumb-line, which is more or less the climb 'Genuine Risk.'


    This route starts as for Genuine Risk. Go uphill along the Bulge Wall for some distance toward the Hawk-Eagle Ridge or Wind Ridge belay base. A tall, thin, lone pine tree is passed just a few meters before you encounter a low angle section below some massive flakes that form a series of zig-zag flakes and ramps that climb upward for 90' to a shelf with a belay tree. This is where the climb starts.


    A standard light rack of nuts and cams with lots of long slings. A tree with bothersomely low branches provides the most solid belay anchor and can be used to rap, but there is an unlikely-looking walk/scramble off past that ledge into the Hawk-Eagle Ridge gully area.

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