Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
East Side
Edelweiss Geos 10.5mm SuperEverDry Climbing Rope

$259.90 24% off

$194.93

at Backcountry

6    more...
Rescue 8 Aluminum Anodized

$42.95 25% off

$32.21

at CampSaver

2    more...
Columbia Treadlite 22 Backpack - 1343cu in

$128.95 29% off

$90.27

at Backcountry

67    more...
Ladies Line 15 m 49 ft

$89.95 20% off

$71.96

at CampSaver

8    more...
Patagonia Women's Micro Puff Jacket

$149.00 50% off

$74.50

at Patagonia

35    more...
Mammut Men's Alpine Light Harness

$49.95 23% off

$37.99

at Moosejaw

8    more...
LA SPORTIVA Mythos Climbing Shoes

$140.00 20% off

$112.00

at EMS

4    more...
Giro Flume Bike Helmet - Youth

$39.99 25% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

47    more...
Tirol Combi Crampons

$149.95 25% off

$112.46

at CampSaver

11    more...
Exped Cloudburst 15 Backpack

$58.95 29% off

$41.27

at Backcountry

30    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brady's Route 
Flat Track 
Girl's Route 
Holy Grail 
Interfearon 
Jack Frost 
Lemon Drop 
Mexican Burrito 
Rasta Man!! 
Sand Dollar, The 
Soul Kitchen 
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam 
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble 
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone 
We The People 
Woods' Cherry 
Unsorted Routes:

East Side 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 5,974. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: eDixon on Aug 20, 2008

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Matt P. chillin' at the rest.

Description 

The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.


Getting There 

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
We The People   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Woods' Cherry   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Mexican Burrito   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Flat Track   5.11c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Interfearon   5.11d PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Holy Grail   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Lemon Drop   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Brady's Route   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Rasta Man!!   5.12+     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Browse More Classics in East Side

Featured Route For East Side
Matt P. chillin' at the rest.

Holy Grail 5.11d  CO : Durango : ... : East Side
This is a great route that ascends the tallest section of the cliff. A 70m rope is nice to lower off from the anchor. There are two crux sections with a ledge between them to shake out. One of the best sport climbs in the Durango area....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on East Side Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Cpt. E
Jul 20, 2009

The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.

By Mark Boissevain
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 3, 2009

If you are camping at the CG with the intent of going climbing, does that pose an issue for the Transfer Park Management?
Any info appreciated.
Mark