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East Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
420 S 
Beowulf S,TR 
Brady's Route S 
Flat Track S 
Girl's Route S 
Gunslinger S 
Holy Grail S 
Interfearon S 
Jack Frost S 
Lemon Drop S 
Mexican Burrito S 
Pyromania S 
Rasta Man!! S 
Sand Dollar, The S 
Simonizer S 
Soul Kitchen T 
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 
We The People S 
Woods' Cherry S 
Unsorted Routes:

East Side  

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Location: 37.46507, -107.67783 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on Aug 20, 2008

61° | 39°

67° | 41°

67° | 41°

66° | 41°

68° | 41°
Columbus Day

70° | 42°
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The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There 

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
We The People   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mexican Burrito   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Flat Track   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Holy Grail   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Interfearon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Lemon Drop   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Brady's Route   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Pyromania   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Beowulf   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Rasta Man!!   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Simonizer   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
The Sand Dollar   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jack Frost   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in East Side

Featured Route For East Side
The far right is Gunslinger.  It is almost covered...

Gunslinger 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Durango : ... : East Side
Start on low angle slab for about two bolts. At the top of the slab, the wall becomes vertical to overhanging for three bolts. Can you figure out the boulder problem?...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on East Side Add Comment
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By Cpt. E
Jul 20, 2009
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.
By Mark Boissevain
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 3, 2009
If you are camping at the CG with the intent of going climbing, does that pose an issue for the Transfer Park Management?
Any info appreciated.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
May 31, 2015
The East Side approach trail starts from the back right side of the gravel pit. We parked there without any issues. When the river is low, it would be shorter to park on the West, then cross the river.
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