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The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.
From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.
20 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in East Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
We The People 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Woods' Cherry 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Mexican Burrito 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Flat Track 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Interfearon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Holy Grail 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Lemon Drop 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Brady's Route 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Rasta Man!! 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Simonizer 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
The Sand Dollar 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Jack Frost 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For East Side
Interfearon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 CO : Durango : ... : East Side
This is a great route to the left of "Holy Grail". Starts of runout but easy slab in to a right facing corner. At the top of the corner climb steep face to large ledge. Follow small dihedral up to bolt and then climb bolted face to 2 bolt anchor at the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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