In addition, looking through old notes, I see mention of 3 climbs I did probably 18 years ago (7/91) with a talented runner, Steve, who climbed. One was a slippery crack, 5.11, which I think he called Connie's Crack. To its right was a 5.9 crack variation. In addition, there was a 5.11+ eliminate variation. At some point, I'll go back and check this out to update this unless someone else wants to do this.
From the parking at the downstream side (East side) of tunnel one, walk down the well-established approach trail till it meets the water's edge. On your right, at the first clean section of the cliff, is a section of face with discontinuous crack system holds vaguely describing a tall, somewhat scary problem.
This problem provides good, if not immediately endearing climbing. The footholds are sparse, slick and never in the optimal location for the moves they support. Handholds are off-balance sidepulls and odd crack pod finger lock pockets. Most moves, from bottom to fluttery topout, feel insecure. From the first good topout holds, relax, breathe, and slowly climb around the blunt arete to the left. These moves are easier than the climb proper, but you're way off the ground, probably pumped and no lo...[more]Browse More Classics in CO