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East Side Lake George Suggestions
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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Jun 23, 2014

Hi All,

Visiting my parents in Lake George this weekend, staying at Battleground.

My gf & I are getting into rock (ice climbers). I am not leading yet though. We are climbing 5.10 and below. We'd like to spend a day hiking into calf's pen, but also getting in some climbing. Suggestions for the area?

Shelving Rock looks great but seems TR isn't listed on MtnP. I'm pretty industrious and would lead 5.7 if I had to (Sport), or get a serious bushwhack going...

Should we aim at Shelving Rock, New Buck, Stewart's Ledge? Also what are the weekend crowds like at areas like this. Hoping to not have a zoo, but wouldn't mind running into others. Can't imagine too many people make the drive down to shelving rock...

Any help is greatly appreciated!


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By Eric G.
Jun 23, 2014

Stewart's ledge is very easy to set up a TR, most if not all lines have bolted anchors at least some of which are easily accessible from the top. The remainder will be easily accessed by a short rap IIRC. (I might have read somewhere that some of the fixed hardware needs updating though, just a heads up).

And yes, Shelving Rock is probably not a good choice for you unless you decide to try leading, in which case there are a couple easy fully bolted lines you could try in the Neanderthal cave.


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By Valerie Bachinsky
From West Sand Lake, NY
Jun 23, 2014
Roger's Rock, Lake George, NY

Eagle Cliff on Buck has a few lines that are easy to set up TR's on. A couple of the routes require gear to set a directional.

www.mountainproject.com/v/eagle-cliff/107608493

There is a good chance you'll have Eagle to yourself.You could always hike up to Eagle, climb, then hit the more popular Stewarts Ledge on the way out if you have time.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Jun 24, 2014
Rumney

New Buck (in the guide) is a bit of an approach (30-40 minutes), but has several routes you can rap down to the anchors for some quality top roping. IMO there's more there for a TR'er than at Stewart's Ledge and Eagle Cliff combined.

For ease, Stewart's ledge. About a 15 minute easy approach. 3-4 good lines that can be TR'd.


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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Jun 26, 2014

New Buck is one of my favorites. Lots of moderate stuff, a few 5.10s and up, but mostly 5.7s. Slabs, cracks, and faces. Very varied, clean rock.

All the setups require either a lead or a simple scramble, followed by a rappel to the anchors.

Not all the climbs have bolt anchors, but there are trees as well. I'd bring as much cord and webbing as you can round up.

The walk in isn't bad, but as was noted, about 40 minutes at a decent pace. Bushwhack is less than 5 of that on a herd path.


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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Jun 27, 2014

Ok trying to check New Buck via google earth. We might skip calf's pen in lieu of spending some more time with my parents. But...

So new buck, trailhead looks to be dirt pull of left side of road (west) Head west towards what GE calls Inman Pond. Trailhead looks to be due west from southern tip of Inman Pond. Does this sound about right?

Then just follow the MP route directions to get there? Is this the protrusion seemingly halfway between Buck Mountain & Pilot Knob (between photo "quiet place" & Crosset Pond on GE) or is it actually on Buck Mountain?

Thanks for all the tips. Any advice on the scramble, right side, left side, obvious?

Edit: I've been meaning to buy a 150' 11mm static, Lake George doesn't have retail for something like that does it. Probably buy local before we head up.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Jun 27, 2014
Rumney

There's an EMS off I87 Exit 15 that has some rope. Not sure if they sell cord or static line.

It sounds like you have the proper directions. At about 30 minutes the marked trail follows a flat area that is/becomes a drainage (lots of green undergrowth here), as it starts heading down watch for a cairn on the right with (the last time we were there) a not-so-obvious herd path that takes you roughly North. This cairn is just before you cross the usually dry drainage. Following this herd path (winding) through the woods for about 5 minutes. Watch out for yellow jackets/hornets. We got attacked on this stretch last year! lol


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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Jun 27, 2014

Your directions sound spot on. Don't go to Inman Pond, keep going straight at the junction. There is a cairn (right side) about 20-30 minutes from that point after you cross some grassy/boggy areas and two small drainages. I haven't been there in two years, so i'm not sure how well marked the trail/cairn is. However, this place isn't unknown, it's fairly well used, though never crowded (2 or 3 groups at a time at most).

The Wilton EMS (Saratoga Springs) sells everything. I just bought 200ft of 7mm for a pull line last week. They had plenty of webbing and other cord. I'm almost certain they had a full spool of 8mm as well.

Scramble on the right size is the easiest option. It's to the right end of the cliffs, which is easily distinguishable because this is where the slabs are. So you should see a nice 5.6 crack, then a 5.5 dikey crack, then the slabs, then keep going right till you find a weakness on the right of the slabs.

Oh, and I'm sure there are climbs between the cracks, but you'll get the idea when you are there.

I'm probably headed there one day this weekend as well. Not sure which, but i'm staying local this weekend with the 3 day weekend next being in the High Peaks.


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By DanSwift
Jun 30, 2014

You could also stop in to Rocksport on Quaker road in queensbury, about 15min from the battle ground.
They have some gear but plenty of beta.


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