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East Side Lake George Suggestions 8/23
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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Jun 23, 2014
John Sherman
Hi All,

Visiting my parents in Lake George this weekend, staying at Battleground.

My gf & I are getting into rock (ice climbers). I am not leading yet though. We are climbing 5.10 and below. We'd like to spend a day hiking into calf's pen, but also getting in some climbing. Suggestions for the area?

Shelving Rock looks great but seems TR isn't listed on MtnP. I'm pretty industrious and would lead 5.7 if I had to (Sport), or get a serious bushwhack going...

Should we aim at Shelving Rock, New Buck, Stewart's Ledge? Also what are the weekend crowds like at areas like this. Hoping to not have a zoo, but wouldn't mind running into others. Can't imagine too many people make the drive down to shelving rock...

Any help is greatly appreciated!

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By Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Jun 23, 2014
Stewart's ledge is very easy to set up a TR, most if not all lines have bolted anchors at least some of which are easily accessible from the top. The remainder will be easily accessed by a short rap IIRC. (I might have read somewhere that some of the fixed hardware needs updating though, just a heads up).

And yes, Shelving Rock is probably not a good choice for you unless you decide to try leading, in which case there are a couple easy fully bolted lines you could try in the Neanderthal cave.

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By Valerie Bachinsky
From West Sand Lake, NY
Jun 23, 2014
Roger's Rock, Lake George, NY
Eagle Cliff on Buck has a few lines that are easy to set up TR's on. A couple of the routes require gear to set a directional.

mountainproject.com/v/eagle-cl...

There is a good chance you'll have Eagle to yourself.You could always hike up to Eagle, climb, then hit the more popular Stewarts Ledge on the way out if you have time.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Jun 24, 2014
Rumney
New Buck (in the guide) is a bit of an approach (30-40 minutes), but has several routes you can rap down to the anchors for some quality top roping. IMO there's more there for a TR'er than at Stewart's Ledge and Eagle Cliff combined.

For ease, Stewart's ledge. About a 15 minute easy approach. 3-4 good lines that can be TR'd.

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Jun 26, 2014
New Buck is one of my favorites. Lots of moderate stuff, a few 5.10s and up, but mostly 5.7s. Slabs, cracks, and faces. Very varied, clean rock.

All the setups require either a lead or a simple scramble, followed by a rappel to the anchors.

Not all the climbs have bolt anchors, but there are trees as well. I'd bring as much cord and webbing as you can round up.

The walk in isn't bad, but as was noted, about 40 minutes at a decent pace. Bushwhack is less than 5 of that on a herd path.

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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Jun 27, 2014
John Sherman
Ok trying to check New Buck via google earth. We might skip calf's pen in lieu of spending some more time with my parents. But...

So new buck, trailhead looks to be dirt pull of left side of road (west) Head west towards what GE calls Inman Pond. Trailhead looks to be due west from southern tip of Inman Pond. Does this sound about right?

Then just follow the MP route directions to get there? Is this the protrusion seemingly halfway between Buck Mountain & Pilot Knob (between photo "quiet place" & Crosset Pond on GE) or is it actually on Buck Mountain?

Thanks for all the tips. Any advice on the scramble, right side, left side, obvious?

Edit: I've been meaning to buy a 150' 11mm static, Lake George doesn't have retail for something like that does it. Probably buy local before we head up.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Jun 27, 2014
Rumney
There's an EMS off I87 Exit 15 that has some rope. Not sure if they sell cord or static line.

It sounds like you have the proper directions. At about 30 minutes the marked trail follows a flat area that is/becomes a drainage (lots of green undergrowth here), as it starts heading down watch for a cairn on the right with (the last time we were there) a not-so-obvious herd path that takes you roughly North. This cairn is just before you cross the usually dry drainage. Following this herd path (winding) through the woods for about 5 minutes. Watch out for yellow jackets/hornets. We got attacked on this stretch last year! lol

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Jun 27, 2014
Your directions sound spot on. Don't go to Inman Pond, keep going straight at the junction. There is a cairn (right side) about 20-30 minutes from that point after you cross some grassy/boggy areas and two small drainages. I haven't been there in two years, so i'm not sure how well marked the trail/cairn is. However, this place isn't unknown, it's fairly well used, though never crowded (2 or 3 groups at a time at most).

The Wilton EMS (Saratoga Springs) sells everything. I just bought 200ft of 7mm for a pull line last week. They had plenty of webbing and other cord. I'm almost certain they had a full spool of 8mm as well.

Scramble on the right size is the easiest option. It's to the right end of the cliffs, which is easily distinguishable because this is where the slabs are. So you should see a nice 5.6 crack, then a 5.5 dikey crack, then the slabs, then keep going right till you find a weakness on the right of the slabs.

Oh, and I'm sure there are climbs between the cracks, but you'll get the idea when you are there.

I'm probably headed there one day this weekend as well. Not sure which, but i'm staying local this weekend with the 3 day weekend next being in the High Peaks.

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By DanSwift
Jun 30, 2014
You could also stop in to Rocksport on Quaker road in queensbury, about 15min from the battle ground.
They have some gear but plenty of beta.

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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Aug 21, 2014
John Sherman
Going to be returning to lake george, saturday the 23rd, and while I just yesterday preordered my ADK Rock guidebook, I am looking for suggestions on where to climb.

Monday we met, presumably, the son-in-law of the owner of Queensbury's Rocksport. Who said he might be able to get some info together on shelving rock, saying that was the place to go, if you're out there, chime in for me!

I am looking to climb (in order of importance):
5.4-5.7 Trad
5.6-5.9 Sport
5.10 TRing??

Hike ins, drive ins, are no big deal, only real concern is that we have some space for the dogs.

Going to start my research now, but if you know the places well, and your 5m blurb could speed up my search, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
No time to drive up to Keene Valley?

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 21, 2014
Shelving rock should suit your needs. Definite mix of routes, some trad, but mostly sport and quite a bit at the grades you want. I'd love to meet up and climb with you again, but I'm in the Gunks and Catskills all weekend.

Have fun.

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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Aug 22, 2014
John Sherman
Hey Kirby,

Wish we could get up to Keene, my gf loves it there, and I'd enjoy meeting you, maybe you could show us around more once the white lines come in!!

We are staying with my parents, and so spending time with them is important. In climbing in Lake George we only miss the afternoon with them. Keene is much more of a commitment and means we lose a whole day from them.



Still would love anyone who could offer up some topo for any of the areas over there. We may return to New Buck if we don't get any good instruction on Shelving Rock. Thanks All

And... Dan Swift, noted!, we intend to stop into RockSport and see what's up!

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By Eric Chabot
From Thetford Ctr, VT
Aug 22, 2014
Go to shelving!

It is super fun and pretty easy to locate the walls. I think the approach beta is on the ADK rock website.

Just look around once you are at the main wall, you will probably be able to tell which routes you can do. There are a few 9s you can lead that share anchors with 10s so you could TR. Lots of bolts, nice and safe.

have fun

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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Aug 22, 2014
John Sherman
So Shelving Rock, I was told the trail was directly across from Calf's Pen Hike in parking lot. When we hiked to calf's pen we parked just after a low bridge, basically due east of and following a drainage into Log Bay. It would appear to me that the actual shelving rock hike in is exactly 1 mile beyond the low bridge and log bay trailhead I am speaking of.

And then, we cross the street (east) take obvious trail, which leads us right up to main wall? Does this sound accurate?

And is the talus field/ belay standing area a concern for dogs based on its size or falling rock danger?

Thank you all for the help!

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By Doc from Rocksport
Aug 22, 2014
Brie's first glacier climb
Hey there...great to meet you at Rumney the other day. I'll send another shout later tonight including some beta on Shelving and the Ark Wall. For your next visit I think you'll be even more psyched to see other local options...the new Adirondack Rock guidebook has updated topos and descriptions of places we've been sharing (mostly word-of-mouth) for years. Also, keep the Southern Adirondack Rockclimbers Festival on your radar, even if you can't make it this year. Jay Harrison and crew do a great job of throwing a community-oriented gathering, oftentimes at cliffs that are a bit off the radar for most folks. mtnsideview.com/sadkrock.html

Thanks-
Doc

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By Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Aug 22, 2014
John Sherman
Hey Doc!

Great meeting you and Brie! I don't have any info on the Ark Wall, but Neanderthall Cave looks doable? It sounds like once we get out we will be able to locate beginner/ moderate climbs and have a blast. Ashley & I are NH Icefest regulars and got to Mountainfest this year, i'll show her the SADKRock link and hopefully we can get down!

Thank you all who helped turn my, worry of not knowing any beta, into a serious stoke for the weekend.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 22, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Tom, understood.. My inlaws are up there so I try to stay outta the house amap.

I plan to stay in Keene for two weeks in December and two in January. Let me know if you come make it up there anytime.

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 22, 2014
Sent you guides for Stewart's Ledge and new Buck.

If you can get someone to show you the Ark, I have heard good things, it's just up the road from new Buck trail head. One of my partners climbs there all the time, but I just never made it there.

Btw, I really don't think the rock in the Keene Valley area is substantially better than the Southern ADK. Maybe I'm an idiot, but I've climbed a lot up there, probably at more cliffs than most (because I haven't wasted a single day at the beer walls, ever) , and I've spent this year climbing a lot at various Southern ADK cliffs. Routes are equally good. The Dacks have a lot of rock, I don't get the compulsion to flock to Keene Valley.

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 22, 2014
Actually, I do get the compulsion. It takes me less time to drive the 90 miles to Keene Valley than it does to many Southern ADK cliffs 50 miles away. But in terms of quality, it's not like the Keene Valley area routes well put up by God himself, on cliffs made from diamond and sapphire.

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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Aug 22, 2014
J. Serpico, I've never wasted a day at the Beer Walls either... Frosted Mug, Flying & Drinking, Tequila Mockingbird, Newtron Brew... you're missing out. There's lots of great stuff in the southern part of the park if you've ticked all the classics at places like The Web, Moss, King Wall etc...

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 23, 2014
I climb everywhere, with no real preference except to avoid crowds. My point wasn't the High Peaks (Keene Valley, specifically) sucks, it's that there is no reason to flock there like a month to a flame. The beauty of the Adirondacks is how much rock there is, how spread out it is, how diverse it is, and how high quality it is.

I disagree that you can only look elsewhere after you've exhausted all options in the Keene Valley area, beyond that I agree.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 24, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Beer Walls, Chapel Pond, Spiders Web, Pitchoff and Deadwater are boring. Whatever you do don't waste time and fuel coming up. The winter routes suck too. People are better off ice climbing in the Catskills.

J. Serpico, You contradicted yourself a little. You only look for spots with no crowds? You wrote you went to the Gunks last weekend. Im sorry to bust your balls but you know that's funny!

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 25, 2014
Unfortunately, you aren't busting my balls. 90% of my Gunks climbing is Friday's, and half of that is shoulder season Friday's. Where you can set up a top rope on High E and camp out and no one will bother you.

But interestingly, despite the crowded parking lots, trad climbing is a dying sport. When I was 20 I looked around and saw all sorts of people my age climbing g. Now I look around and see mostly people my age or older.

i've spent the last two Saturday's in the Gunks, climbing moderate 3 star classics without waiting once, or having another group on my heels. If that is crowded, than I'm a fucking hypocrite.

Also, I went to the Gunks Saturday, because I spent Sunday canyoneering in the Catskills. Where we didn't see another group for 4 hours of technical descents and swims. And yes, I do think Catskills ice is pretty damn good. I was climbing it till almost May this year. Living smack in the middle of the Gunks and Keene Valley I have options, and I make the most of them. I guess that makes me an idiot.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 25, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
J, I was just trying be funny and talk shit. No need to explain yourself.

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 25, 2014
I didn't take it personally, just pointing out I am fortunate to have options and happy to take advantage of them. I generally avoid the Gunks like a plague a weekends, but it's really not hard to walk 20 minutes and find some (relative) solitude and hit some non classic climbs, many of which are excellent (many of which are not, that's the fun).

FLAG


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