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> S Howser Tower
East Shoulder-East Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British AI2-3
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in South Howser Tower
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Beckey-Chouinard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Hose, South Howser Tower, The T WI4- |
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East Shoulder-East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI2-3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Helmey Beckey, Loyd Anderson, Lyman Boyer, Tom Campbell, 1941 |
| Page Views: | 4,593 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Nov 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This is the original way to climb the hardest and second highest summit in the Bugaboo Group. Beautiful, steep, mountains attract talent, and the last unclimbed summit in the Bugaboos didn't stay that way for long.
Before World War II, Loyd Anderson was well known; for his tenacity against the weather, the recent first ascent of Forbidden Peak (with the young Beckey brothers), and later for founding REI. Helmy Beckey, only 16, made the second ascent of Mount Waddington the next year (with his brother Fred).
Loyd and his team of "young recruits" found out a Sierra Club team was also after the big prize. They said little of their intentions at Boulder Camp. The next morning as the sierrans started up, the north cascades team was well on their way to the summit. (Climbing in North America, Chris Jones, 1976)
Harder than Snowpatch Spire? In 1990, Bugaboo Rock still rated the origninal South Howser route, IV, 5.6, A1. Snowpatch is rated IV, 5.6+. Teton climber, Bill Buckingham, found a way to free it in 1961, 5.8, and thought the crux about equal to Wiessner's Route. Even after pioneering the difficult East Ridge Integral in 1970, Michael Heath and Bill Sumner still reported using some aid on the way to the summit.
This climb also requires real alpine ice climbing, at least that is what we found in 1980. Photos by Mountain Project contributors seem to indicate this route is wasting away, like so many others.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Climb over Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, head up to the Pigeon-South Howser Col, and turn right to follow easy, but crevassed, snow to the base of the ice face on the South Shoulder.
The first pitch passes the schrund and belays by the rock above. should be rappel anchors because this used to be a more popular way down. Climb two more long pitches of fun 45-50 degree ice up to the top of the Southeast Shoulder. From the north end of the flat ridge-top, there is supposed to be a ledge to follow out right on the East Face. Pass a snow-patch and climb a chimney (5.8/C1 crux. Above the hard part, three pitches of 5.6 lead to the summit.
DESCENT
Six, double rope, rappels straight down the East Face.
EQUIPMENT
Bring two axes/tools, real boots, crampons, and a rack of screws for the first three pitches. A rock rack and rock shoes too. Two ropes for the last rappel past the 'schrund are recommended.
Before World War II, Loyd Anderson was well known; for his tenacity against the weather, the recent first ascent of Forbidden Peak (with the young Beckey brothers), and later for founding REI. Helmy Beckey, only 16, made the second ascent of Mount Waddington the next year (with his brother Fred).
Loyd and his team of "young recruits" found out a Sierra Club team was also after the big prize. They said little of their intentions at Boulder Camp. The next morning as the sierrans started up, the north cascades team was well on their way to the summit. (Climbing in North America, Chris Jones, 1976)
Harder than Snowpatch Spire? In 1990, Bugaboo Rock still rated the origninal South Howser route, IV, 5.6, A1. Snowpatch is rated IV, 5.6+. Teton climber, Bill Buckingham, found a way to free it in 1961, 5.8, and thought the crux about equal to Wiessner's Route. Even after pioneering the difficult East Ridge Integral in 1970, Michael Heath and Bill Sumner still reported using some aid on the way to the summit.
This climb also requires real alpine ice climbing, at least that is what we found in 1980. Photos by Mountain Project contributors seem to indicate this route is wasting away, like so many others.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Climb over Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, head up to the Pigeon-South Howser Col, and turn right to follow easy, but crevassed, snow to the base of the ice face on the South Shoulder.
The first pitch passes the schrund and belays by the rock above. should be rappel anchors because this used to be a more popular way down. Climb two more long pitches of fun 45-50 degree ice up to the top of the Southeast Shoulder. From the north end of the flat ridge-top, there is supposed to be a ledge to follow out right on the East Face. Pass a snow-patch and climb a chimney (5.8/C1 crux. Above the hard part, three pitches of 5.6 lead to the summit.
DESCENT
Six, double rope, rappels straight down the East Face.
EQUIPMENT
Bring two axes/tools, real boots, crampons, and a rack of screws for the first three pitches. A rock rack and rock shoes too. Two ropes for the last rappel past the 'schrund are recommended.
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