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Eldorado Peak
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East Ridge 

East Ridge 

Easy Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: D. Blair, N. Grigg, A. Wilson, A. Winder - August 1933
Season: April - October
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on May 8, 2013

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Skinning up the Eldorado Glacier at dawn

Description 

This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite.

Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.

Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.


Location 

See the description section.


Protection 

Crampons, ice axe, pickets, glacier gear



Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Ben, descending from the summit across the corniced knife-edge
Ben, descending from the summit across the cornice...
Summit view
Summit view
Looking down the summit ridge to our skis
Looking down the summit ridge to our skis
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