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Mt. Temple
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East Ridge 
Greenwood-Jones T 
Greenwood-Locke 

East Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Mod. Snow PG13

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 5000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hans Wittich & Otto Stegmaier, 1931
Page Views: 3,684
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 28, 2010

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Mike beginning the first lead up the Big Step.
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Background 

Of the somewhat debatable selection of Canadian Rockies routes immortalized in Steck & Roper's "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America", the East Ridge of Temple is likely the best. Achieving the ideal mix between difficulty and safety, the route offers a mellow approach, consistently excellent & sustained climbing, magnificent views, relatively bomber rock and a carefree descent. While the length and intricacy of the ridge and ensuing traverse of the peak ensure a long day, thankfully most of that day is spent climbing. The route begins with many enjoyable pitches of steep rock climbing on good quartzite, then passes a brief shale band before eventually entering the dramatic sculpted limestone landscape of the Black Towers. The final transition to the corniced summit ridge of the North Face Glacier is quite literally and figuratively the icing on the cake; not nearly as treacherous as some, but just enough to keep the long haul interesting.

While by today's standards this is a trade route, the climb should not be under-estimated. After repeating this route in the late '70's, famed North American climbing historian Chris Jones famously remarked about the era, "Never underestimate a route done in the 1930s; mountaineers back then were often fast and competent." There is plenty of loose rock around, pro is tricky to place and the corniced ridge can be unstable on warm days.


Approach 

Park at a pullout a mile or two below the Moraine Lake Parking Area, along Moraine Lake Road. Follow a trail up the grassy hillside on the North side of the road towards the base of the ridge.


Description 

Follow the grassy hillside toward the base of the East Ridge. Eventually vegetation gives way to talus, which is followed to the base of a third class ridge. Follow the path of least resistance for several hundred feet of moderate scramble to a broad shoulder at the base of The Big Step.

East Ridge Topo.
East Ridge Topo.


Start a few feet left of the left nose of the buttress, and follow two or three pitches of steep 5.6 climbing on generally excellent rock to the top of the Big Step. More moderate scrambling works up the ridge to another low angle section.

Hike easily along the ridge, mindful of loose rock, until the dark gray bands of the Black Towers are reached. At this point locate a prominent ledge system and traverse left several hundred feet, eventually wroking up & left to the next higher ledge system, and traversing another several hundred feet (snow may be encountered depending on conditions). Continue the west-ward traverse until below a pair of similar-sized, conical towers.

A gully splits these towers, and another gully goes around the right-most tower on the right side. Follow this, right-most gully for a couple pitches on relatively solid limestone at low 5th class to regain the crest of the ridge. Occasionally the upper half of this gully is filled with snow.

Don the appropriate snow gear and follow the corniced ridge to the summit, mindful of crevasses and soft cornices.


Protection 

Rock gear, boots, crampons, one ice tool/person. Rock shoes optional.


Descent 

Follow the throngs of hikers on the SW Ridge down to Moraine Lake.



Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Midway along the ridge.
Midway along the ridge.
Beginning the corniced upper ridge.
Beginning the corniced upper ridge.
Approaching the Big Step.  The route up the Step begins just left of the sun/shade line.
Approaching the Big Step. The route up the Step b...
Third-class scrambling to reach the Big Step.
Third-class scrambling to reach the Big Step.
The Bivy Site immediately at the top of the Big Step. Pretty plush looking for it's position!
The Bivy Site immediately at the top of the Big St...
Janelle beginning up The Big Step with the Valley of the Ten Peaks behind.
Janelle beginning up The Big Step with the Valley ...
Sunrise from the East Ridge of Mt. Temple
Sunrise from the East Ridge of Mt. Temple
Nearing the top of the first pitch.
Nearing the top of the first pitch.
Loose rock is the crux of this route for sure. I got hit in the leg in the final few meters before topping out the Black Towers and it was unpleasant.
Loose rock is the crux of this route for sure. I g...
The Valley of the Ten Peaks from the base of The Big Step.  From L-> R are: <br />Mt Quadra (Glaciated) <br />Mt Babel (foreground) <br />Mt Fay (Galciated) <br />Mt Little <br />Mt Bowlen <br />Peak 4 <br />Mt Perren <br />Mt Allen <br />Mt Tuzo.
The Valley of the Ten Peaks from the base of The B...
Nearing the top of the gully that skirts the Black Towers.
Nearing the top of the gully that skirts the Black...
Mike begins the final pitch to the top of the Big Step.
Mike begins the final pitch to the top of the Big ...
Atop the Big Step, looking towards the Black Towers and the upper ridge.
Atop the Big Step, looking towards the Black Tower...
Begining the descent down the SW Ridge.  Mt Deltaform in the background.
Begining the descent down the SW Ridge. Mt Deltaf...
Beginning the traverse under the Black Towers.
Beginning the traverse under the Black Towers.
Brad climbing up "The Little Step" which goes up to the highest point in this pic. Many folks (us included) get the rope out for the last few moves, which are very steep and committing. There's a fixed pin right at the start of the steep stuff (2011)
Brad climbing up "The Little Step" which goes up t...
Ascending to the next higher ledge, below the Black Towers.
Ascending to the next higher ledge, below the Blac...
Approaching the Black Towers.
Approaching the Black Towers.
Leading up & around the towers.
Leading up & around the towers.
from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When <br />traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step) <br />you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow <br />slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope <br />near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The <br />exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but  most climbers <br />scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay <br />by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and <br />left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of <br />loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.
BETA PHOTO: from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When...
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