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 ADVANCED
North Guardian Angel
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East Ridge T 

East Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Asa King on Oct 20, 2010  with updates from NickJ

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BETA PHOTO: Chossy ridge leading to summit, Left Fork of North...

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Description 

From the base of North Guardian Angel, take the obvious 3rd class crack strait up to the saddle, about 70 Meters. From there follow four pitches of 4th class climbing up the ridge to the top. Be careful where you sit, the belay spots are covered with ants that want this climb to their own, and they'll let you know that. Some of the sandstone can be slick with a think layer of dirt on this climb.

Location 

From the end of the Northgate Peaks trail, find a small climbers trail that eventually dissapates, and head strait to North Guardian Angel, the peak inbetween the other two. Descend the same route.

Protection 

Leave the rack at home, because there are almost no places to place gear. The climbing is easy enough that it isn't critical to rope up for the climb. There are anchors on trees along the way up that you can rope up a second, but mostly these are used for setting up a rappel. Take a 60m rope.

However, if you are on the more careful side or like placing gear, bring a light rack with a few small pieces of pro, it may come in handy. In addition some bail gear may be a good idea. Most of the pitches on this climb are very long if you stay roped up. It is not possible to rappel from belay station to belay station with a 60M or even 70M rope.


Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
This is taken from the end of Northgate Peaks trail.  The route follows the red line.
BETA PHOTO: This is taken from the end of Northgate Peaks trai...
Kim on the 4th/easy 5th class white sandstone slabs of the middle section
Kim on the 4th/easy 5th class white sandstone slab...
Looking west from summit across Kolob terraces
Looking west from summit across Kolob terraces

Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
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By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 25, 2012

I think the first pitch is more like 70 meters, not feet.......