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Disappointment Peak
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East Ridge T 
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East Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jack Durrance, George Sheldon, Percy Rideout - September 2, 1937
Page Views: 3,743
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Jun 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: East ridge proper, seen from the forested bench at...

Description 

This fun route makes a great day climb or warm up for bigger routes. There are numerous ways to climb this popular ridge. Generally, staying away from the ridge crest (or to the climber's left) will be easier. The rock quality is good.

The first pitch (or two) climbs to a large treed ledge that cuts across the east face of the peak. Getting to this ledge could be 5.4 or 4th class depending on the route taken.

From here, wander up for 3 to 5 pitches, making use of the many good belay stances. At minimum a few 5.6 moves will have to be made, though the climbing could be made more difficult. Top out near the ridge crest and hike another thousand or so feet up the boulder field to summit.

Location 

Hike from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead to Amphitheater Lake. Follow the trail northwest to the notch at the base of the ridge. Descend the Southeast Ridge.

Protection 

A small rack to 3"


Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
The East Ridge of Dissappointment Peak. Mount Owen...
BETA PHOTO: The East Ridge of Dissappointment Peak. Mount Owen...
1st pitch, climb cracks up to and right of the sma...
BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch, climb cracks up to and right of the sma...
Final pitch
Final pitch

Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
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By Kevin Bradford
Sep 22, 2013

This a super fun route with killer views, and it requires very little time, equipment, and overall commitment. The approach takes about 2.5 hrs, we went to the summit, which is well worth it, and it was 9 hrs car to car. You could probably bail to the left (south) at any point in case of bad weather, as there are ledges all along the ridge that lead towards the spoon couloir. The views of garnet canyon from the summit are top notch, you can see every peak along the grand traverse.

For gear i would bring a single set of cams from .5 to #3 camalot, a set of nuts, and 6-8 long runners. If you want to do the 5.7 hand crack at the top, bring two #2's. We brought a large hex instead of the #3, and it came in handy once or twice.

To descend head across the summit plateau to the sw ridge. Find a 4th class gully leading through the cliff bands above amphitheater lake. The correct gully will have a view straight down to the grassy bench directly on the broad ridge line. Follow this gully until it gets steep, at which point a convenient ledge system leads right and down to the grassy bench. Find a trail from here down through the grass to the lake.
By Dapper Dan Rogers
From: Driggs, ID
Aug 21, 2014

Pay close attention to the descent description here, and in the local guides, it can be a bit deceiving, or at least I thought so! You'll head a ways past the spoon into the scrubby forest to find the gully, and the "ledge system" at the end of the gully (where it cliffs out) is perhaps best thought of as "A hidden traverse." Hope this helps! Great climb, and heartily second that going to the top is worth it.
By Prametheus
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 29, 2014

Climbed this in 4 pitches, as Gams' book suggests. All the anchors we used were natural, with the exception of the 2nd belay on the ledge. Here, having 2 .75s or 2 #1's would have been useful but not necessary. The 5.6 runnout variation is highly recommended and is extremely exciting. Sack up and give'r!!!!!

The descent description above is great and we had no difficulties finding the trail. There are cairns and the trail is pretty well traveled, although a bit convoluted at times.