Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,238 total · 40/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Jan 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is another historic and very old route on the Matron, but is not quite as good as the North Face route. Approach the Matron and walk to the very most Easterly of the base. From here, climb one pitch of 5.5 up a ramp that angles from right to left. The pitch is the only semi-difficult one on the route and is very short, about 30 feet. From here, scramble up easy, fun slabs for about 350 feet to the summit.

To descend, rap off double bolt anchors over the back side.

Per Kevin X: once you're off the summit, there are two sets of anchors - one to the west (your left while rapping), one to the east, (your right while rapping). With a 60m, go to the anchor to the west, and rap down the slab to the ground. The eastern anchor will not allow you to reach the ground. I am unsure if a 70m would reach the ground from the eastern set.

Protection Suggest change

This route is typical of many other Flatiron face climbs in that it takes very little pro, but is not really scary. Bring a light rack of nuts and a couple small cams. If you didn't bring a rope for the descent, this climb is preferred for downclimbing over the North face route.

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