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 ADVANCED
East Ridge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babyback T 
Edgemaster S 
Everpresent Lane T 
Exile S 
Fluorescent Gray T,S 
Fountain of Youth T,S 
Galactic Warrior T 
Haywire T 
Ilga Grimpeur S 
Iron Cross T,S 
Kent's Krack T,TR 
Knack, The T 
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 
Superguide T 
Unity T 

East Ridge  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 39.9665, -105.2894 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,800
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Oct 20, 2001
Forecast:
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  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Wedged between the Goose and Nebel Horn Ridge, the East Ridge rises in two steps separated by a gap. The lower step is the Fiddlehead. The upper step is also divided in a lower and upper section also, conveniently named by their characteristics: the Stealth Slab and the Dihedrals. The Stealth Slab contains many high quality sport routes while the Dihedrals are better visited for its mixed and trad routes. The whole of the East Ridge can be characterised by its Eldo-like sandstone (but with more pebbles it seems) and its beautiful red and green south faces.

    The location can be very quiet, almost forgotten, and a pleasant day can be had working from the top of the ridge down or visa versa in solitude. Don't miss out on the views of the Indian Peaks from the ridge crest.

    Getting There 

    No matter where you start, you'll be at least an hour and 1/2 on the trail before you reach the East Ridge climbing routes. Find the Fern Canyon trail from a number of trailheads (the North Shanahan seems easiest) and follow it past the Superfresh block (the obvious overhanging bolt route), which is shortly encountered after the Slab Overlook. You have a choice from here: you can take a faint trail right up into the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn Ridge which brings you past the Fiddlehead, or continue on the Fern Canyon trail to the sandy ridge top and bushwack right along the crest West of Nebel Horn Ridge. Class 3 scrambling and wonderful views of the Indian Peaks bring you to the classic serrated lines of the Upper Dihedrals.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 2.3 miles from here

    17 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Ridge:
    Fountain of Youth   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Edgemaster   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Everpresent Lane   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Iron Cross   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
    Lightning Bolt Arete   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Fluorescent Gray   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
    Exile   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport   
    Browse More Classics in East Ridge

    Featured Route For East Ridge
    Near the crux traverse. Photo by Ico.

    Fluorescent Gray 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CO : Flatirons : ... : East Ridge
    This route is located just above the huge gap in the East Ridge. It follows a beautiful face just right of a jagged, left-leaning arete. Start with the burley, slightly overhanging hand and finger crack in a gully. A few 5.10 moves right off the deck lead to a thin, reachy 11b section (lower crux). Continue up to a broken ledge with a small tree below the first bolt. Gear isn't great at the ledge, I slung a horn but some tricky nut placements may also work to protect the moves up to the firs...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for East Ridge
    Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
    From The Slab, 4/11/02.
    BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.
    Made me think, and I hate that.  Really fun 11a/b,...
    Made me think, and I hate that. Really fun 11a/b,...
    Upper East Ridge dihedrals.
    Upper East Ridge dihedrals.

    Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 23, 2001
    No reflection on you Michael, but I think this is a terrible name for this crag (I understand it is Rossiter's term). East Ridge of what, Nebel Horn? How can an East Ridge trend more or less North-South? I would hope we can come up with a better name for this crag.
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Oct 28, 2001
    George, I couldn't agree more! It almost seems an inside joke or something. I only refer to it as such b/c of Rossiter.

    BTW, speaking of inside jokes, the Bean Liquer wall in Boulder Canyon didn't get it's name from a liquer, he-he, but "Bean Licker" - yes, THAT bean....Perhaps Rossiter knows something we don't....