East Ridge Direct
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A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park).
From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.
From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).
The great rock provides awesome holds.
Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.
Forbidden Peak, located in Boston Basin, east of Marblemount on the Cascade River Road
A set of cams, half a set of nuts (small nuts), lots of slings.
|Comments on East Ridge Direct
|By Daniel Coltrane|
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Why would this be rated PG-13? The gear is good and there are no substantial runouts on hard ground.
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Aug 25, 2011
I found the rock to be pretty good with ample gear. The climb is largely a rising traverse, so there's nearly equal risk for the follower as for the leader.
Note that you can bypass both Gendarmes on the right/east side. Done this way the whole climb can go at 5.6 or so.
Have your descent figured out!! There's no easy way off Forbidden, so whether you descend the East Ledges, or downclimb the West Ridge (or some more obscure option), when you reach the summit, you are no more than halfway through your day.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13
I actually thought this was a better route than its famous neighbor. We went directly over each gendarme, there's some suspect rock at a few points. Note that descent via 5 raps down east ledges gets very dangerous once "3rd classing" begins.