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Forbidden Peak
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East Ridge Direct 
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East Ridge Direct 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1940 Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Dave Lind, Lloyd Anderson
Season: June - August
Page Views: 1,720
Submitted By: Adrian Lazar on Aug 11, 2011
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The last gendarme

Description 

A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park).

From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.

From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).

The great rock provides awesome holds.

Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.


Location 

Forbidden Peak, located in Boston Basin, east of Marblemount on the Cascade River Road


Protection 

A set of cams, half a set of nuts (small nuts), lots of slings.



Photos of East Ridge Direct Slideshow Add Photo
On the East Ridge.
On the East Ridge.
East Ridge of Forbidden Peak starting to the left of the right gendarme
East Ridge of Forbidden Peak starting to the left ...
Booyah!
Booyah!
Traversing the East Ledges of doom. This photo was taken about halfway through the traverse. The exit comes right before the gendarme. Loose mungy '3rd class' scrambling at its finest.
Traversing the East Ledges of doom. This photo was...
East Ridge climbin.
East Ridge climbin.
Comments on East Ridge Direct Add Comment
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By Daniel Coltrane
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Why would this be rated PG-13? The gear is good and there are no substantial runouts on hard ground.

By Eric Fjellanger
Aug 25, 2011

I found the rock to be pretty good with ample gear. The climb is largely a rising traverse, so there's nearly equal risk for the follower as for the leader.

Note that you can bypass both Gendarmes on the right/east side. Done this way the whole climb can go at 5.6 or so.

Have your descent figured out!! There's no easy way off Forbidden, so whether you descend the East Ledges, or downclimb the West Ridge (or some more obscure option), when you reach the summit, you are no more than halfway through your day.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

I actually thought this was a better route than its famous neighbor. We went directly over each gendarme, there's some suspect rock at a few points. Note that descent via 5 raps down east ledges gets very dangerous once "3rd classing" begins.

By Nick Seaman
Mar 6, 2014

Classic route in a classic setting! We stayed true to the ridgeline the whole climb and found the rock to be of good quality minus one or two loose easy sections. The real fun (type 2) begins after leaving the summit. I've read that some climbers find the descent down the East Ledges "loose and stressful", and I totally agree. Intense exposure and unprotectable loose scrambling in the no fall zone make for a full-on descent. However, if you can keep your sh!t together it's not that bad, and I would use this descent option in the future.