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East Rib 
Looking Glass Regular Route 

East Rib 

5.4 PG13

   
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Type: Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
FA: Cowboys
Submitted By: Shane M on Apr 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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185ft free

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Description 

Three pitches of easy runnout friction climbing. Pitch 1 start bellow the toe of the ridge bellow a short corner. Climb the corner to a flat ledge with a bolt. Continue up to another bolt in a white rock band, then to the third, and finish with a short crack to the 2 bolt anchor.(145ft). Pitch 2 Climb past 3 bolts on the narrow ledge, past the smearing crux around the 2nd bolt, to the 2 bolt anchor at a good stance (130 ft). Pitch 3 Finish up with an unprotected 4th class scramble to a two bolt anchor on flat sandstone. (140ft). Descent Walk west from the anchor to a set of 3 pitons and two bolts on a wide terrace. Then do a 17ft rappel down to a ledge and find 4 bolt rappel anchor above a keyhole. From here take the plunge and rappel 185ft through the air down to the ground.


Location 

Hike around the north side of the dome to the base of the obvious east ridge. Start on a slab bellow a short corner on the southeast side.


Protection 

6-8 Draws, (2) 60m ropes (Shorter than that and you won't make it), and several long slings.



Photos of East Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Megan climbing the East Rib on Looking Glass Rock.

Megan climbing the East Rib on Looking Glass Rock.

Rappel window on top of Looking Glass.

Rappel window on top of Looking Glass.

Don't forget the summit register!

Don't forget the summit register!

This has been my favorite rappel, thus far.

This has been my favorite rappel, thus far.


Comments on East Rib Add Comment
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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 31, 2011

Good writeup, but this route has already been posted.

By Mike N
From: Currently Charlotte
Apr 21, 2013

There are 2 routes, one goes up the east rib(This one), at probably 5.3, other one goes over the arch. We didn't do the proper arch route, but saw belay anchors from above on the the arch. The rapple is great, and can be done with a 70m rope. It just touches the ground without rope stretch.