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East Peak

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Alcove, The 
Amphitheater 
Castle Crag 
Dihedral Section 
Fall Wall 
Merimere Face 
Rite of Spring 

East Peak 


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Location: 41.5569, -72.8344 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
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Description 

This area lies above the town of Meriden. A small "Castle" (Castle Crag) sits at the summit of the peak and affords an excellent view of central CT. The road to the top is closed evenings and during the winter - check the sign at the gate and make sure you don't get locked in. When the road is closed a bit of hiking is needed to get to the crags.Most of the best crags overlook Merimere Reservoir, part of the Meriden water supply.

From Left to Right the crags are as follows:
1. Castle Crag
2. Rite of Spring
3. Dihedral Section
4. Amphitheater
5. Fall Wall
6. Merimere Face


Getting There 

Take Exit 4 off I-691 and head southeast on Rt. 322 towards Meriden. Go about .7 mile and turn sharp left into Hubbard Park. Follow Mirror Lake Dr. around lake and past the swimming pool until it ends at Hubbard Park Dr. Turn left. Just beneath the highway overpass is a gate that closes the road to the castle at night (currently 4:45 pm) and in winter (November through April).

If gate to castle is open, note posted closing time and drive up road 3 miles (taking left fork) and park in lot by castle. Follow the blue-blazed trail east from the parking lot for 5-10 minutes. The top of the cliffs are on your right.

If the gate to castle is closed, park and walk past the gate up the road. Just as you reach the reservoir, turn left onto a gated dirt road. Follow the dirt road a couple hundred yards until it curves sharply left. Take a faint trail on the right. The trail crosses a small stream and heads up left through the woods several hundred feet to an open scree slope. Follow the trail diagonally left up through the scree to a steep, faint trail that leads to base of the cliffs near route "Shades of Grey" and "Grey Corner" (Amphitheater Area). A sketchy, loose goat trail skirts the bottom of the cliffs. Go left for Rite of Spring and Dihedral Section; go right for Fall Wall and Merimere Face.


35 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',3],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Peak:
Rat Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'   Amphitheater
Lost Corner   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 90'   Dihedral Section
Black Corner   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Amphitheater
Downcast   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 90'   Dihedral Section
Thor's Hammer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Merimere Face
Squirrel Cage   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater
Cat Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Amphitheater
Sickle   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater
Dol Guldur   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'   Amphitheater
Browse More Classics in East Peak

Featured Route For East Peak
This was a fun climb that I will definitely go back to lead.

Cat Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CT : Central CT : ... : Amphitheater
Start is loose blocks to a great hand / fist crack to the top. Sustained climbing to the crux near the top where the crack thins to fingers. Wonderful crack climbing- tape is reccomended....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of East Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Mikko leading "Relection of Fall", 5.9+ <br />on the Merimere face of East Peak
Mikko leading "Relection of Fall", 5.9+
on the Mer...
Castle Craig (public domain photo taken from the Wikipedia)
Castle Craig (public domain photo taken from the W...
Eastvillage on "Reflection of Fall" 5.9+ <br />Merimere Face, East Peak
Eastvillage on "Reflection of Fall" 5.9+
Merimere ...
Arete climb
Arete climb
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