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Redgarden - S Buttress
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A Breed Apart 
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Bulge, The 
C'est La Fin 
C'est La Morte 
C'est La Vie 
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Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
Continue-us 
Crack Variation 
Desdichado 
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East Overhang 
East Side 
Edge of Night, The 
Exodus 
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Genuine Risk Takers 
High Noon 
Horizontal Beginnings 
Je T'Aime 
La Vie d' Pansey 
Le Boomerang 
Left Side of Roark, The 
Mental Cruelty 
Night 
Noggin 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) 
Original Anthill 
PA's Variation 
Pansee Sauvage 
Pilgrim 
Pseudo Sidetrack 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Redguard 
Restless Nights 
Semi-Wild 
Semi-Wild Slab 
Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
Whistle Stop, The 
Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

East Overhang 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Doub, 1982
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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This is the crack topped by the icicle. Not ideal...
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.

    Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.

    Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.

    There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).

    Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.


    Protection 

    Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.



    Comments on East Overhang Add Comment
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    By Paul S
    From: Fruita, CO
    Oct 20, 2006

    There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.

    By Joey Thompson
    Jun 11, 2007

    Stiff little climb. Worth doing though. Take only a few pieces protects great at the lip. Short but sweet!