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Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 
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East Overhang 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Doub, 1982
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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This is the crack topped by the icicle. Not ideal...

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  • Description 

    This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.

    Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.

    Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.

    There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).

    Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.


    Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.

    Comments on East Overhang Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Paul S
    From: Fruita, CO
    Oct 20, 2006

    There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.
    By Joey Thompson
    Jun 11, 2007

    Stiff little climb. Worth doing though. Take only a few pieces protects great at the lip. Short but sweet!
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