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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
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East Overhang 
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Mental Cruelty 
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
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Whittle Whisk 

East Overhang 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Doub, 1982
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002
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This is the crack topped by the icicle. Not ideal...
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  • Description 

    This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.

    Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.

    Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.

    There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).

    Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.


    Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.

    Comments on East Overhang Add Comment
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    By Paul S
    From: Fruita, CO
    Oct 20, 2006

    There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.

    By Joey Thompson
    Jun 11, 2007

    Stiff little climb. Worth doing though. Take only a few pieces protects great at the lip. Short but sweet!