Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.
Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.
Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.
There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).
Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.
Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.
There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.