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 ADVANCED
The Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andrology T,S 
CG's Naked Fun Time S 
Dynamometer T,S 
East of Eden T,TR 
Edge of Time S,TR 
Lost Time T,S 
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 

East of Eden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: TR: Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1987
Page Views: 1,646
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...

Description 

This route if located at the top of the trail, on the face just left of "Edge of Time". You can scramble to the top of this wall by continuing to the top of the trail, turning right and then going in between the two [obvious] walls, scramble up to your right to get on top of the wall. This description seems vague, but when you are there, it is pretty obvious, sorry.

This route climbs just left of Edge of Time as indicated and is decent climbing on top rope, not suggested to be lead, unless it is retrobolted.

Protection 

Anchor on top for top roping - old anchor with 3 old sleeved and 2 new - If leading on natural gear - good luck!

Eds. apparently this pitch has been retrobolted.


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By allen simons
Aug 22, 2011

Led this the other day thinking it was the stiffest 5.7 I had been on in a while. Turns out it is 5.9. Note to self, bring my guidebook next time, but it was an exciting lead and fun.
By Jeremy Jones
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you use the tree, it is much easier, maybe 5.7 to 5.8. I did think the crux (between bolt one and two) was harder than a 5.9-. I was burned out, last climb of the day, but it felt like a two move 5.10a at the crux. The route was awesome!!!! Thanks, Lisa G. and Lance T., for climbing with me.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not sure if East of Eden has been bolted or if there's a new route further left. Nice route, and well worth climbing. The bolted line is left of Lost Time. (Lost Time is correctly described as being about 10 ft left of Edge of Time.) The bolted line is about another 40 ft further left and is well bolted.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 24, 2013

After a huge guided school group departed, this route was in the shade. I found excellent face climbing protected by six bolts and and good placements (#0.5 and #1 Camalots) in a horizontal above the second bolt.
By KairnKB
Sep 9, 2013

The info on this route is confusing on here, so I thought I could clarify.... I went up to Jurassic Park a few days ago.... East of Eden is directly to the left of Lost Time, and it has brand new bolts on it - enough that you do not need any Trad gear for the climb. I felt that it was a moderate 5.9 with hard to find, but it has good feet and slopey hand holds. It was a good warm up for the sketchy, run out Edge of Time.
A clear, frontal view of East of Eden and its fresh bolts (with draws in them).
A clear, frontal view of East of Eden and its fresh bolts (with draws in them).


A stormy day at Jurassic Park - Erick Kelly near the top of East of Eden on lead.
A stormy day at Jurassic Park - Erick Kelly near the top of East of Eden on lead.