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East Ironing Board
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East Ironing Board Traverse 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Neil Chelton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: neil chelton on Jan 18, 2010
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route makes a rising traverse from the bottom left to the top right of the East Ironing Board. It is an exciting adventure and a great way up the rock.

    Pitch 1: From the toe of the buttress make a rising traverse rightwards up the east face to a tree belay at the bottom of a wide gully. This is only 25 feet directly above the ground (5.1R, 190feet).

    Pitch 2: Continue up and right to belay in an offwidth crack. Belay takes 3-5 inch gear. This pitch is runout for both leader and follower (5.5X, 190 feet).

    Pitch 3: Continue up trending right to the next crack. Follow this up to belay at the top of the first pitch of Hand Crack (5.4R, 150 feet).

    Pitch 4: Continue trending up and right to the bolted belay of Smooth. The last 70 feet are runout for both leader and follower (5.4R/X, 160 feet).

    Pitch 5: Climb directly over the bulge to a thin seam leading up and right. The crux here is poorly protected. Follow the obvious crack system with good protection to a tree belay (5.6R, 160 feet).

    Pitch 6: Follow the crack above for 30 feet, traverse right to the next crack, pass a tree to reach a notch on the ridgeline. Belay from bolted anchors on The Raven (5.4, 100 feet).

    Scuttle 50 feet up the ridge to tag the summit if you feel the need (unprotected 5.1).

    Rappel 55 feet west from The Raven anchors.


    Protection 

    This route is consistently runout and both the leader and follower should be confident at the grade. Offset cams, lots of small slings and offwidth size gear are useful.



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