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East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.
Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in East Gate Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Gate Buttress:
Stradler 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Only Human Var. 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Keelhaul 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
The Flakes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
El Chollo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
To Air is Human 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
El Segundo 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Gran Hermano 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Ankle Biter 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
El Pipe Dream 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Christopher of the Everglades 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Wild Things 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Negro Modelo 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
El Guapo 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Bloodline 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Sidewinder 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
The Flakes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
My all-time favorite at the grade in Little Cottonwood, this route can be "Quite a grunt to get to and tricky to find," according to the Ruckman guide, but it's well worth it. Approach via Tingey's Terror to Tingey's Torture--traverse east 25ft from the bolted anchor atop the third pitch of Tingey's Torture--for a fun, long link-up or bushwhack your way up ledges to the base of To Air Is Human (.10d) or Under Fire (.10), granting access to the low-angle, splitter first pitch (5.6). The second ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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