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East Gate Buttress
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biter 
Bloodline 
Christopher of the Everglades 
El Chollo 
El Guapo 
El Pipe Dream 
El Segundo 
Flakes, The 
Gran Hermano 
Keelhaul 
Negro Modelo 
Plasma 
Sidewinder 
Stradler 
To Air is Human 
Wild Things 
Unsorted Routes:

East Gate Buttress 


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Page Views: 16,529. Good page?   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Partly Cloudy
82° | 54°
Partly Cloudy
82° | 50°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
79° | 54°
Mostly Cloudy
72° | 48°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
68° | 46°
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


(c) Andrew Burr

Description 

East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.


Getting There 

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Gate Buttress:
The Flakes   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
To Air is Human   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
Wild Things   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
El Guapo   5.12-     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Bloodline   5.12c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Sidewinder   5.12+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in East Gate Buttress

Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
bloodline

Bloodline 5.12c PG13  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me. At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the nin...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of East Gate Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
parking, approach, and location of crag

BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag

The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circled.  very approximated because I can't remember if you take the first or second traversing crack. sorry, its been a few years but when you stand at the bottom its clear which to do.

BETA PHOTO: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...

newish east gate routes

BETA PHOTO: newish east gate routes

beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.

BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.

Yellow = El Guapo <br />Blue = El Pipedream <br />Red = El Chollo

BETA PHOTO: Yellow = El Guapo
Blue = El Pipedream
Red = El Cho...



Comments on East Gate Buttress Add Comment
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By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 29, 2013

This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!