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 ADVANCED
East Gate Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Bloodline T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

East Gate Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57387, -111.75163 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,613
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.

Getting There 

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Gate Buttress:
Only Human Var.   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
El Chollo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
El Segundo   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gran Hermano   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Christopher of the Everglades   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
El Pipe Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bloodline   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Classics in East Gate Buttress

Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
Checking-out the upper section, yes you're going t...

The Flakes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
My all-time favorite at the grade in Little Cottonwood, this route can be "Quite a grunt to get to and tricky to find," according to the Ruckman guide, but it's well worth it. Approach via Tingey's Terror to Tingey's Torture--traverse east 25ft from the bolted anchor atop the third pitch of Tingey's Torture--for a fun, long link-up or bushwhack your way up ledges to the base of To Air Is Human (.10d) or Under Fire (.10), granting access to the low-angle, splitter first pitch (5.6). The second ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of East Gate Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
parking, approach, and location of crag
BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag
newish east gate routes
BETA PHOTO: newish east gate routes
The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
BETA PHOTO: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...
BETA PHOTO: Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...

Comments on East Gate Buttress Add Comment
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By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 29, 2013
This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!