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 ADVANCED
Sunday Afternoon Boulder
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East Flake T,TR 
North East Crack T,TR 
North East Dihedral T,TR 
Unknown Hand Traverse TR 
Victim of AIDS T,TR 

East Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,641
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 29, 2006

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Hand crack to off width, S.A.B.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Obvious hand crack/flake with flared offwidth at top.There are two finishes on this short high quality climb. 1. at top of hand crack continue the last 10 feet up off width chimney (grind your way up). 2. Stand up and lie back the upper edge of the chimney(much easier)This is a good practise climb to get ready for other Woodson classics.

Protection 

Use cams .75-2 the crack takes good pro and there are lots of good feet to the left of the crack as well as in the crack.Anchor by using red and yellow aliens or small cams in horizontal crack at ledge above climb.


Photos of East Flake Slideshow Add Photo
David leading up the hand crack on S.A.B.
David leading up the hand crack on S.A.B.

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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 22, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are bolts for an anchor. For entertainment value, climb the short face which the bolts reside on top of to finish off the climb.
By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 5, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I rated this classic layback/highball 5.9 all the years I was on Woodson. See the barrel chested, Professor Keith Brueckner depicted on the cover of the 1987 Woodson guide on the same problem at: illusiondweller.blogspot.com/2...