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Tiny Tower
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East Face/Tiny Tower T 
South Crack Right T 
West Ridge T 

East Face/Tiny Tower 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Gerry Roach
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Jan 1, 2002

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Warren Teissier leads P1 on the Tiny Tower. The r...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the base of the East face you will notice a large fin of rock about 2/3 of the way up. This fin forms a right-facing dihedral. The route climbs up the East face slabs slightly left and turns right under the fin and follows the dihedral.

P-1 Start at the low point of the rock or slightly North of it. Work your way up and left on somewhat unprotected rock. I placed 3 pieces for the whole pitch. The climbing is easy but punctuated by some 5.4 moves. Once under the fin move right and enter the dihedral. About half way up set up a belay at a stump/bush

P-2 Exit the dihedral to the South via one of two weaknesses. The lower weakness provides an easier exit but puts you on a steep 5.7 slab with no pro for about 15-20 feet. The upper weakness is harder to surmount (5.6) but puts you on easier terrain. Once on the slab work you way up towards a 2 foot wide crack and reach the summit after exiting left from the crack. Belay some 15 feet shy of the summit at a horizontal crack (no pro at the summit)

Descent - Retrace you steps North (right) on the horizontal crack until you reach a broken area and exit West. scramble down 30 feet of fourth class to the West side of the Tiny Tower - Climb the West ridge for a complete outing.

Protection 

Standard Flatiron rack.


Photos of East Face/Tiny Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Oveson and Warren Teissier near the summit of...
Mark Oveson and Warren Teissier near the summit of...

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By shad O'Neel
Oct 7, 2003

The exit from the dihedral at 5.6 is the weakness just above the obvious belay at the bush. The 5.7 way is at the same height or slightly below this belay. The top out from the dihedral is quite crumbly (we realized and backed down). Fun route- good place to go with dogs.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

Pleasant for remoteness, poor for the sport of rock climbing. Loose and uninteresting.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

Thought I better add that twice a watermelon size chunk came off while on this. This section of the Flatiron formation above and below even has some unnamed crags. Aside from the relative remoteness it may be the lack of decent rock.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The prickly evergreen bushes Rossiter refers to as the cluster of small junipers are really a detractor for this route. I didn't enjoy it that much.