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Pellea
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East Face/Pellea T 

East Face/Pellea 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,438
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jul 30, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Rick Blair on rappel over the overhang and into th...

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  • Description 

    This is one of the better east face routes that I have done in the Flatirons. I gave this route a "s" rating even though none of the guide books give it this rating. The two cruxs on the climb have 20-30 foot runouts on them, but the rock is clean and the holds are small but plentiful. Begin about 50feet from the southern edge of the rock.

    P1: Angle up to the left passing a small tree. Pass the bulge near the left edge of the rock. This is the crux (5.5), the slab climbing is wonderful here, but your last piece is 20-30 feet below you. This should add to the experience.

    P2: We angled up to the right along a crack system and belayed above an offwidth crack.

    P3: Head straight up the runout slab and head to the left edge of the rock when you get to the next bulge that traverses the rock. Pass the bulge near the southern edge of the rock near a 18 inch pot hole. (5.4) Follow a crack system on the prow to the summit.

    Descent: Sling a thread with a ~9 foot sling and rap 60 feet to the west.

    Protection 

    Gear to 2 inches, webbing for the rap.


    Photos of East Face/Pellea Slideshow Add Photo
    Several climbers on the east face of Pellaea.  As seen from the summit of Fiddle Head.
    Several climbers on the east face of Pellaea. As ...
    View down P2.
    BETA PHOTO: View down P2.
    Rapping off of Pellaea
    Rapping off of Pellaea
    Bob and MaryLynn finishing up on the last pitch.
    Bob and MaryLynn finishing up on the last pitch.
    P1 ... crux headwall.
    BETA PHOTO: P1 ... crux headwall.
    P3 crux headwall ... runout above.
    BETA PHOTO: P3 crux headwall ... runout above.
    P1-2 belay ... view up P2.
    BETA PHOTO: P1-2 belay ... view up P2.
    Looking down on the crux.  Move right under the little tree. I belayed here to keep the rope from damaging the tree....
    Looking down on the crux. Move right under the li...

    Comments on East Face/Pellea Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 30, 2001

    I climbed this route again today and it is beautiful. It is not totally obvious where to start the route, and we did it differently today. A low start is harder but no worse than the crux. This is only about 50' from the Fern Canyon trail, only 20' above the low point of the rock. A flake sticks out here, it looks like an ear. You can climb up onto the face using this ear, then traverse left and then straight up lichenous rock, bypassing a steep bulge using pockets to the left (very little pro on this pitch).

    An easier start is about 100' higher near a big pine tree. A sloping ledge leads west (very easy) to the arete right below the (first) crux. I think this is the start Guy speaks of.

    I always wondered what a "Pellaea" is. Turns out is a genus of fern. Appropriate for Fern Canyon.
    By Warren Teissier
    Oct 1, 2001

    I did this climb last week, and I have to agree with the (S) rating comment. I am used to Flatiron run outs but the combination exposure/run out on the first crux is pretty awesome.

    Perhaps if I had brought a small TCU I could have protected on the flake to the right of the crux.

    This being said, Pellea is an awesome climb, it is clear why it made the top ten ranking on Roach's book.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jan 22, 2002

    It is possible to start this climb about 75 feet north of the low point. Angle up to the left and join the regular route above the small tree. This pitch is about 5.4, but also a little runout. With a 200' rope, the climb can be done in two pitches. We did this pitch by accident. After rapping off of the Fiddlehead, we thought we climbing Onoclea.
    By shad O'Neel
    Oct 13, 2002

    Really good, third the (s) rating. Maybe, it was just my head today, but the whole thing seemed a bit more runout/serious than a normal Flatiron. Super climbing with a great position (not protection). We did three pitches- two long (180') and one shorter (maybe 75'). Guess what, no traffic other than us......
    By Robbie Kalinowski
    Sep 17, 2003

    What a great climb! DO IT! The POSITION is fantastic. Looking down Fern Canyon, and at the back of the slab - when you are 200 ft. up, it feels like you are on top of the 3rd Flatiron. We did it later in the afternoon, and the sun on the rocks below us was makeing me say holy S*#$ is this cool! I thought the crux was runout, so I agree with the "s" rating. It is much more of a serious outing than then 3rd (climbing-wise), so be comfortable at 5.5 or 5.4 slab climbing if leading, but it is all there. Watch for lichen, as this isn't as well traveled as the more popular climbs. My partner knocked down a large (3 ft. by 2 ft.) flake towards the start of the climb (scary) but otherwize, the rock was very solid. Go down a bit and north from the summit to find the slings. There were 5 slings or so with 3 rap rings when we did this on 9/14/03. From the bottom of the rap, we went directly west and then south and met up with the trail.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 17, 2004

    There is a tiny Alien placement just to the left of the crux on the first pitch that does provide a bit of protection. This felt like standard Flatiron runnout to me, nothing more, nothing less. Beautiful rock, a great route. We climbed Fiddlehead and Onoclea first, and finishing on Pelaea was a great finish.
    By MarkGriffin
    From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
    Aug 9, 2006

    Climbed this today, 8-9-06; friggin' sweeeet. The slings ontop are getting old and weathered, definitely bring some webbing to back this up. I didn't and was slightly sketched out.

    We started ~100 feet from the Fern Canyon trail at a break in the poison ivy. Didn't think it was too runout, standard Flatirons slab. Second and third pitches are better protected than the first.
    Third pitch is super fun.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Nov 25, 2006

    Great little climb. The approach is pretty casual, the climb is short and sweet, and the views are fantastic. It's a nice, remote, change from the usual Flatiron fare. The first crux (steep friction chute on P1) is pretty intense for a 5.5, so be sure you're comfy on dime edges 30' above your last pro before attempting. The last pitch is pure fun!

    The rappel into the notch is great, but rope drag is a real problem. We rigged low from the anchor and rapped a meandering dihedral directly north into the notch. The outcome was the closest I've ever come to having a stuck rope. In the future, I would probably lay the rope over the smooth bulge to the west and rap that way.
    By Rick Blair
    From: Denver
    Nov 9, 2009
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

    I can tell from the descriptions some others took a slightly different route, I stayed mainly towards the southern edge. Normally I take R ratings on the East face Flatiron routes with a grain of salt, this one deserves it. The lead running up to the first crux and the entirety of the second crux on the 3rd pitch is friction and 2-3 mm edges for holds, all with no pro.

    The first pitch crux actually has good pro for the final big move, for me, leading the 3rd pitch was the hardest part. Before heading up the crux and toward the "pothole/hueco", I put in pro at the large ledge to protect the potential plummet off the side, that scenario would only occur after first decking on the ledge. A little bit of choss and lichen here and there adds to the fun. Maybe it was the day but this climb got my attention, definitely the spiciest 5.5 I have ever done.

    Beautiful area, great summit and great rappel, interesting options for the hike/scramble down.
    By Brian C.
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 10, 2014

    So I win the stupid award and started climbing P1 way to far up aiming for a smooth gully above. Ended up slightly more challenging than the standard crux (lichen) but took gear a little better. Ended up above and way to the right of the standard P1. Sad thing is I'd climbed this before....