|Consensus:||YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Aug 30, 2001|
|Comments on East Face/Onoclea||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Warren Teissier
Dec 17, 2002
I climbed this route today. Really nice scramble.
We were soloing it and I felt that the crux was rude to solo: the exposure is severe and you need to friction your way up a steep slab with not so good holds (at least I couldn't find them today).
After a serious case of the "chicken shits" a rope was made available to me and instantly the difficulties subsided... Funny how that works.
Anyway, great rock, great setting.
Aug 1, 2010
|To find this route, don't turn off the main trail before the trail narrows--else you will be climbing Fiddle Head. Also note, the route is significantly run out in many locations, more than the typical Flatiron. I found that the headwall mentioned in the description to be best climbed up the middle, not the left. At least the middle had some protection which really affects my rating criteria. The crux slab is runout--I hit it up and then transversed left and up. I thought the multiple headwalls made the route tougher than 5.3, but maybe that was due to my frustration about the route be runout with out being labeled as such. The scramble down to the rappel and the rappel tree are fine.|
By Brian C.
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
|Roach describes after the rappel off Pellea, you can scramble down the gash to reach the east face of Onoclea. We tried this, but the gash is steep/fern-filled, so we climbed a short, vertical wall directly up just a short distance down the gash. This put us on a great belay ledge on Onoclea and 200' from the top. Good way to combo the two, but it bypasses the smooth crux below.|
By Jamie Princo
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 12, 2014
If the slab crux isn't your cup of tea, follow the little ledge to where it peters out hanging over the gash. There's a wall full of bomber holds that will get you 2/3rds of the way up the slab, at the small, half-dying tree to climber's left as viewed from below. One solid handhold and a decent foot will bring you home free, big footholds to the main headwall.