East Face/Hippo Head
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Warren Teissier on the nice crack pitch on the Eas...
This would be a three star climb if the lower part of the face was less broken and cleaner. The last 45 feet before the summit block climb one of the best hand/fist cracks in the Flatirons as qualified aptly by George Bell
Begin at the saddle (highest point) on the East face. Work your way up past trees and a series of ledges and bulges to the base of the crack. Belay at a tree
Climb the crack past a small overhang and onto the ledge at the base of the summit block. Scramble one at a time for 30 feet to the top
Descent - rappel North some 50 overhanging feet from slings around a horn. I suggest you bring a 10 foot sling for this. Word has it there is a downclimb on the West side, but it is reputed to be scary.
Standard Flatiron rack.
Another shot of Warren in the nice 5.6 crack at th...
BETA PHOTO: Hippo Head crack.
|Comments on East Face/Hippo Head
|By Dean Carpenter|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2007
Climbed this route today and the crack pitch is a lot of fun, it makes the grungy first pitch worth it. I rappelled 50 ft west from a small boulder that seemed a little sketchy. The boulder is on the ledge directly behind the summit block and it has some old purple slings with two old oval biners on it. I backed it up with a new sling and two new rap rings. I don't know if this is the rap station in the description, but it held for us.
|By Doug Redosh|
From: golden, CO
Oct 29, 2012
We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it.
We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder.
There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR the crack (50 ft).
Walk off (bushwhack) in the gully north of the formation. We had to do 2 short raps at cliffs, but Dave managed to find a way down by going into a spiral cave.