Start at the low point of the rock on the East face. The start is on the Mallory cave trail just before it winds through a split rock and switchbacks onto the Mallory cave scramble section.
Protection is available when you need it. We did this with a 60m rope in three pitches.
P1- Head up picking your way on easy flaky rock. We belayed at the second ledge system after running up the rope.
P2- From here a short 5.3 (unprotected headwall) deposits you on a large ledge system in front of a chimney. Traverse right (north) to the edge. Peer down into the gully in front of the cave and crank up the protected crux of the climb. Follow a ramp system left to the chimney and belay before crossing.
P3- Cross the chimney and head up easy ground to the summit.
Descent: Scramble north to hiking territory and rappel East from a tree to the front of the cave or hike West through Fatman's Frenzy and then North and East to regain the cave trail. If you rappel, be aware that people might be visiting the cave below you. It is bad form to drop rocks, climbing equipment and even climbers on hikers....
Standard Flatiron rack.
Climbing the steeper headwall on P2.
Warren Teissier freezing his ass off on the East ...
Crossing the chimney/gash on P3.
One of the high-quality placements between the lar...
|By Warren Teissier|
Jan 22, 2002
Yep, when we did this climb (Jan. 15th) the thermometer in the car as I parked at NCAR read 17 degrees.... Thus the lack of a smile in the picture below. Fun route though....
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 18, 2003
According to the folks at Boulder Mt Parks, it's open again (Mallory Cave is not). Also, it is possible to do 2x60m pitches. From the big tree nearly abutting the middle of the East face, you can wander essentially straight up to a huge ledge (big enough for a party) with a crack/dihedral for a #4 & #1 Camalot. From here, we went up and found a near vertical headwall protected by a couple nuts and headed for a section where the face falls away. We crossed up onto the final slabs here (not much pro) and topped out. We used a #3 Camalot for the summit anchor. From here, an extra bonus is finishing out on Sharks Fin on upper South Side, 5.6. Then you downclimb to the Finger and Sharks Fin notch & scramble West. 2 summits, no rappels.
|By Paul Weiss|
Jun 27, 2003
Found the rock to be dirty with lichen and loose in places. Like most Flatiron climbs the belay anchors are wimpy, but the climbing is straightforward. The route swings left and right, use long slings.
|By shad O'Neel|
Oct 26, 2003
Chasing obscurity again, or just avoiding the crowds. A decent route to take someone who is just learning up. I thought the first pitch was a bit run out, but that may be my tendency today to skip mental protection. Fun micro-headwall.
|By kyle lefkoff|
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Climbed this on 10.25 with Roy. We found it well-protected and accessible for its grade, with good quality rock.
The first pitch was 50m to the belay; the second and third were both 30m pitches.
The descent crawl through the Fatman's Frenzy is a classic.
|By Brian C.|
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
When in doubt, just keep climbing!