East Face/Dinosaur Rock
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This route starts on the left side of the large block leaning against the east face. This route has made it on Roach's Flatiron classic list. The rock is generally sound on this route, but there are some flakey sections in the dark red bands. There are good gear placements, but they only occur at 20-30 foot intervals.
P1: Start in one of the left-facing ramp systems about 25 feet to the left of the large block. After about 120 feet, start to look for the best spot to angle up to the left across the red slab. With a 200 foot rope, you can reach a nice ledge below the crux slot. (5.3 190 feet.)
P2: Climb the steep groove above, there is flared #2 [Camalot] placement at the crux. After exiting the slot, climb the slab to the right. A small blue Alien protects the final bulge before you head for the summit. This pitch felt harder than 5.4, but it was 40 degrees out when I climbed it. I will let you be the judge.
Descent: Downclimb the west face route (5.0). You can do a single rope rap from a tree 30 feet down.
Gear to 2.5".
BETA PHOTO: The base of Dinosaur Rock; climbing rout...
|Comments on East Face/Dinosaur Rock
|By Paul Weiss|
Oct 14, 2002
Used a 50 meter rope and belayed at the top of the ramp system. This belay provided good pro and space for the second. The 2nd pitch started straight up a pocketed face for twenty feet and offers a few places for pro before traversing to the left across a sloping ledge. (5.3) You can place a .5 Camalot before the traverse and a #1 Camalot after in order to protect the second. From here you should see the large belay ledgeGuy refers to with the slot directly above, head for that and haul up the second.I have to agree that the slot looks harder than the 5.4 rating and holds potential for a nasty fall onto the sloping ledge. The protection is none to nill, small nut maybe, for the move up into the slot a 5 ft vertical section. My partner being a new climber, I decided to forfeit this option and instead headed right across the ledge and than up through the dark red bands to a rib. The climbing was fun and the rock solid and offered up a safer alternative to the slot.From here continue straight up to a point just below the summit belaying on a solid flake. I kept my second on belay and had them continue on over the summit and down to the rap ledge on the west side. The down climb is exposed and leaves you with a warm fuzzy feeling. I suppose if one is adverse to the warm fuzzy feeling could sling something to help protect the downclimb. Enjoyable climb providing spectacular views and easy approach.
|By Dmitriy Zinchenko|
Dec 12, 2002
This is great trad and solo route. It's short and provides plenty of good resting spots. The gear might be somewhat limited but I think the climbing is generally easier than the 3rd. Try to protect the crux as much as you can because there is tumble potential here. I think the only part of this route that absolutely sucks is the descent. Either lower your second across the sharp summit ridge or just unrope and freesolo down some featureless 5.0 I personally climbed the descent route first and then came back to free-solo the standard route.
|By James Garnett|
From: Bellingham, WA
May 3, 2003
Did this route today in 73F, sunny skies and just a light breeze; it felt easier than 5.4. In trying to correlate the route to Rossiter, I seem to find that he calls it "Rug Munchers." We climbed the rib a few feet left (south) of the slab leaning against the east face, as it looked more interesting than the red slab farther south. The first good belay ledge seemed more like 120 ft up, and we couldn't decide whether the crux above it was the rather unprotectable slab above or the steeper section just below what we think was Guy's crux slot. Either way seemed about the same, and straightforward. Used some tricams, the smaller Aliens, and some really big Camalots; hexes are good at the belay stances, and a few extra shoulder-length slings to keep the line straight. The summit is 30 meters above the first belay, so we found the climb from bottom to top to be no more than about 210 ft. Only the two brief "which-one-is-the-real-crux " sections warrant the 5.4, but they both yield to easy footwork (lots of ripples, huecos, etc.). The rest of the climb seemed to be more like 5.2/5.3. Be careful in the runouts, though: I was having so much fun that I was moving faster than I ought to've on the slab above the first belay, and a foothold crumbled just after I weighted it, 20 ft above my last piece. Never found that good blue Alien placement, but there's a pocket tailor-made for a black one in the same general area (i.e., below the slot). A #3 tricam protected the only mildly tricky move directly below the slot.
The descent definitely sucks. The summit is a sharp-edged ridge that runs north-south, and someone had put a sling around a sketchy-looking block on the south side and rapped directly off the very summit itself. It seems wiser to downclimb the 15ft of 5.0 to the ledge on the other side and rap off the many slings around the tree. Hard to see the slings until you're *west* of the tree.
Had so much fun on this one that we had to do it twice!
|By William Thiry|
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c R
The route description given here by Guy is not correct. The best description given in a guidebook is Gerry Roach's Flatiron Classics.
P1. At the base of Dinosaur Rock is a large, triangular slab that leans against the main east face. You can climb up either the left side of this to the top (4th class if you avoid the polished red rock and stay on the featured rib) or climb up the right side of this triangle (which I have not done but is apparently pretty good 5.2). In either case, belay at the top of this triangle, which is a great belay ledge.
P2. Given the many descriptions of this route, it is confusing where to go for the second pitch. Guy describes going far left across red slabs to a ledge below a slot, belaying there, then ascending the slot. That is not the recommended route, however.
As described in Roach's book, go basically straight up from the belay, perhaps tending a tad right for the first 20 feet, aiming for a small roof about fifty feet above the belay. I was only able to find one good piece of gear in this section about 20 feet above the belay (0.75 cam). Another crack 10 feet below the roof may take a smaller cam or nut, but it didn't strike me as being a very reliable place for good pro.
Tiptoe up good 5.2 rock to the left side of the roof. Go up left of the roof, which forms a left-facing flake. There is a great spot for a 1" cam about half way up this flake. The 5.4 crux is getting through this section, but once you place the cam, you will feel much better about things. There are good holds on the flake and good friction on the slab to the left.
Soon after the cam placement the climbing quickly becomes very easy as you scamble straight up to a great belay ledge.
After this pitch, the guidebooks would lead you believe that this climb is over, but for beginner climbers, the next section can be the most frightening.
From the belay spot, you must ascend a 10-foot friction slab (no holds!) to a knife-edge ridge, then downclimb the other side which is 20 feet of 5.2. (This is the top of the West Face route, which is listed as 5.0 but will seem 5.2 downclimbing it.)
New climbers will be intimidated by this, especially if there is a strong wind at this summit. The stronger climber may have to belay their partner over this ridge and down the other side, and then tackle this challenge solo.
Once down this face you can apparently downclimb striaght west then north toward the main Mallory Cave trail (this would be the lower part of the West Face route). We weren't familiar with this downclimb, so we simply rappelled off the huge pine tree straight west.
This is a very nice route.