This route begins up hill on the north side of the rock, about 100 feet from the east side. The climb starts near a 2 foot arch.
P1: Traverse south through a small overhang to get to onto the east face. Follow the slab near the right edge for 30 feet. Traverse left and belay below a large V-shaped overhang.
P2: Traverse right below the overhang, lieback the right facing dihedral or climb the slab next to it. Pull left through the overhang after 25 feet and head up to a small tree. There are 3 pieces of old fixed gear on this pitch.
P3: Head up to the left through some boulders and pull an overhang near a fist crack. Climb a fun runout slab for 30 feet and head right at a boulder. Aim for a great finger crack at the top of the climb.
Descent: Do a 150 foot rap to the west off of 2 old bolts. (Back them up with a boulder) The last ~80 feet are free and spectacular. This descent can be done with 2 one rope raps. Make sure you check out the 5.13 roof problem on the west side called the "Five Year Plan".
Pro to 2.5 inches.
Paul heading up the first pitch, taken from the cr...
Paul starting up the hand jam.
The best finger crack in the Flatirons, if it cont...
Ryan starting off the E-facing portion of the rout...
Rick below the beautiful but way too short crack.
Another slightly tricky finger/tips crack we found...
|By Warren Teissier|
Aug 7, 2001
P1 and P2 can be done as one pitch. I climbed past the tree in the notch and belayed at a tree 20 feet further up.
I did two one rope rappels. Make sure the first rappel set up clears the lip of rock (long lip). I didn't do this and it took 10 minutes of yanking and all my strenght to retrieve the rope. I suggest bringing a long piece of webbing and a rap ring... The second rappel is off an overhanging belay from a bunch of slings.
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 15, 2002
Climbed this route yesterday (4.14.2002). An alternative start begins 100' downslope (left) of the standard P1 and climbs up unprotected slab, through roof (5.7?), and up past tree described above (not recommended). Descent can be done as one double rope rap with a 60m rope, but not recommended due to heinous rope drag. Overall, an okay route at best in my humble opinion, but a good way to beat the weekend crowds on the other more popular Flatirons routes.
|By Warren Teissier|
Apr 15, 2002
I have to agree with Mike, it is an O.K. route but have often wondered why it was included by Gerry Roach as part of the Top Ten Flatiron routes. I found the rock to be brittle in places (at the crux) and the line a bit convoluted (snaking between trees at crux and belay). There are many other Classics (not top ten) in his book that I believe are head and shoulders above this route.
|By shad O'Neel|
Jul 23, 2002
Three stars might be a bit much, I remember that tree through the crux too, and wishing it had been clearcut. It would be prettier without it, but no one in their tree hugging mind would do a thing like that. Still, this is a great route in my backyard, that I thought felt super fun and alpiney for being so close to the pub.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 11, 2003
Finally tried this one. I agree with Mike & Warren. Not in the upper eschelon for the Flatirons. Rock quality was reminiscent of Red Rocks (CO) Fountain formation on P1. To be picky, "V-shaped overhang" is a bit misleading. Perhaps shallow, bulging slot with beautiful lichen color with an old ring piton at its base might be better. The 2 pins I found seemed solid. There is evidence of 2 pin scars at the licheny overhang just to the R of the slot. There are lots of ants at the 2nd tree. There is a belay just L of the 2nd tree. #1,2,4 Camalots work there. The "5 foot roof crack" of Rossiter's and Roach's description is also misleading. Perhaps, a bulging section with a fist to hand size crack is more accurate.
The ropes can be pulled slightly easier by scrambling 30 ft up the rock just W of the Back Porch to improve the angle of the pull.
1 star & not top 70, IMHO. Sorry Gerry.
The anchor at the top is less than optimal. There are 2 old 1/4" bolts (1 is a buttonhead) backed up with slings around the large boulder on top. The sole sling with a single hollow rap ring to extend past the lip was attached to 2 hollow aluminum rings. Now, at least , there is a second sling with a link.
|By Will Clopton|
Jul 26, 2003
If you do the double rope rappel, be sure not to toss the ropes too far out, getting them on top of the trees near the west face. You can't see all the trees from the top rappel anchor. Both my ropes were in the trees and one rope looped the branches when I was trying to free it. I was lucky and managed to pull the ropes free. I suggest tossing the ropes just over the first lip, where they will land on the large ramp below. From there you will see where you can do a second toss. This was a very fun free rappel.
|By Russell Oakley|
Apr 6, 2004
Man, I must be crazy, but I love this route, especially the direct start pitch. This pitch feels adventurous (loose, sparse pro), but it isn't that hard. Just step lightly and don't fall.
The fixed gear on p2 is from the 1950s and is not to be missed. I could flex the eye with my fingers, but I clipped it anyway.
In the summer the ants rule the ledge above p2. Belay above and left of the tree, lest ye have to dance with ants in yer pants!
|By Dan Mottinger|
May 16, 2004
I agree with the above people that this climb is not quite "Top Ten" quality (in my book) compared to other Flatiron climbs. (Two stars still b/c of position and the character of the rock) While Flatiron climbing is runout as a rule, I found this to be more noticeably more runout than other climbs (maybe just because it's a little harder slab climbing). Trying to choose a line that was more protectable, I found it to be less aesthetic--following and clipping old hangerless bolts, and ring pins. Lastly, one comment on doing two one rope raps off the backside. Like Warren said, the second rap anchors are semi-hanging above a free hanging roof, to get below the slings one must cautiously lower onto the slings from above or set up the second rap hanging off the tunnel thread anchor. I would not recommend doing this as two one rope raps if there is anyone inexperienced rappelling in your party.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 12, 2004
Some mixed reactions in the postings on this one. That's good though. This one makes my top 10 for east faces in the Flats. It also sets you up for big challenge on the backside or getting to a great dihedral down on Rainbow/Primal Rib called Solid State.
|By Mike McMahon|
From: Vernal, Utah
Oct 10, 2007
Cool climb. The second rap is spectacular (especially in the dark.) As stated earlier, this one may not be a great first rap! Currently there are four slings and three aluminum rap rings on the rock arch/tunnel.
|By Christina kalb|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2010
I enjoyed the climb. I didn't think it was any more run out than the typical Flatirons. The gear was a little more creative, but solid, so it might not be the best climb for a beginner leader.
From: Vail, CO
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The crux is pretty fun. But all the rest is the usual Flatiron climbing. It's as runout as other Flatirons. That piton was pretty old that Gerry Roach put in. Good gear at the crux.
You can do this in two pitches. 3 makes it more comforting.