Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Silver Star & W…
> Chablis Spire
East Face
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 2.2 from 10
votes
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, Richard Berge, Wesley Grand |
| Page Views: | 2,152 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Nash on Jul 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1: Start by climbing up to a handrail and traversing right towards the large hanging "split block" and nasty looking chimney. [FYI: This handrail may be at snow level depending on the time of year] Once you reach the block, clip the pin and do a slightly awkward step across move onto the block. From here either climb straight up the awesome finger crack right in front of you to a nice ledge (5.8), or keep traversing right until you reach easy terrain that gets you up to the next ledge (5.4). Set your anchor in the crack on the ledge right above the finger crack and belay here.
P2: Climb up the easy and fun crack right in front of you to the next ledge. From here, traverse left a little and look for the rightward trending dyke. Climb up the dyke. There is no pro here for about 25-30 feet, but the climbing is easy on very solid rock (5.6R). Once above the face climbing section, ramble up easy ledges, trending left. Your goal for the next belay is the large horn with some slings on it.
P3: Trend right and upwards on easy ledges towards a short chimney. Climb the chimney to a small ledge, then continue up a somewhat dirty corner until you reach a large ledge. The final leftward facing corner should be obvious from this ledge. Belay here. 5.6
P4: Take the obvious corner up until your just below the summit. Fun laid back climbing. Belay from the notch between the bunny ears.
P4.5: From here, getting to the summit is unprotectable. We climbed up to the top one by one and then downclimbed while roped up.
DESCENT:
From the bunny ears notch, downclimb 15 feet to the next ledge. There are rap slings around a large horn here. A double rope rap from here will take you down to the large slung horn you belayed off at the top of P2. A double rope rap from this will put you back at the base.
P2: Climb up the easy and fun crack right in front of you to the next ledge. From here, traverse left a little and look for the rightward trending dyke. Climb up the dyke. There is no pro here for about 25-30 feet, but the climbing is easy on very solid rock (5.6R). Once above the face climbing section, ramble up easy ledges, trending left. Your goal for the next belay is the large horn with some slings on it.
P3: Trend right and upwards on easy ledges towards a short chimney. Climb the chimney to a small ledge, then continue up a somewhat dirty corner until you reach a large ledge. The final leftward facing corner should be obvious from this ledge. Belay here. 5.6
P4: Take the obvious corner up until your just below the summit. Fun laid back climbing. Belay from the notch between the bunny ears.
P4.5: From here, getting to the summit is unprotectable. We climbed up to the top one by one and then downclimbed while roped up.
DESCENT:
From the bunny ears notch, downclimb 15 feet to the next ledge. There are rap slings around a large horn here. A double rope rap from here will take you down to the large slung horn you belayed off at the top of P2. A double rope rap from this will put you back at the base.
0 Comments