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The Penguin
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East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Mark Roth on May 27, 2012

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The last easy section to the top.... Great views ...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is for those who like walking more than climbing. If you are planning a trip up the left side of Seal Rock and are an aficionado of obscure Flatirons, this might be worth a quick detour. The crux is near the bottom, nothing too hard, but the lack of traffic keeps it dirty and covered in pine needles. Once you reach the left-facing flake, there is plenty of gear if you want it. Higher on the face the easiest path is through a section of dark brown rock that is pretty loose and flakey. You can avoid it by staying left. With a 70m rope, you can easily make the top in one pitch. If not, there are a few good spots to belay from....

Location 

Start on the lowest point of the East Face.

There are a couple of ways off the top:

1) Down-climb through a slot to the west. This is easier if you are tall. Harder than the route if short, but still doable.... It seems like there would be a nasty tumble if you blow it, but it's easier than it looks.

2) Down-climb a little ways down the east ridge until you can reach a ledge system that heads SW back into the hillside. (Roach and Rossiter both mention this way.) It looked easy, but we already went down the slot....

Protection 

A few cams and nuts, or just solo.


Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the East Face.
Starting up the East Face.
Once you reach this flake, the rest of the route is much cleaner and better protected....
Once you reach this flake, the rest of the route i...
You can follow that left-facing flake system for most of the route....
You can follow that left-facing flake system for m...

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